5 Historic Queer Heritage Sites in Delhi That Tell Untold Stories

Delhi's ancient stones whisper stories that conventional histories often overlook. Beyond the well-documented tales of emperors and conquests lies a rich tapestry of queer narratives woven into the capital's architectural heritage. From Sufi shrines celebrating profound same-sex bonds to monuments built by gender-nonconforming rulers, these sites have been said to challenge heteronormative interpretations of the past. These five heritage locations are reported to reveal how LGBTQ+ identities have always been part of Delhi's cultural fabric, offering sanctuary, spiritual guidance, and positions of power long before modern movements for equality. Each site stands as a testament to the resilience and contributions of queer communities throughout history.

1. Jamali Kamali Tomb: Delhi's Queer Gemstone

Inside Mehrauli Archaeological Park stands one of Delhi's most romantically charged monuments, the Jamali Kamali Tomb. Built between 1528-1536 CE during the early Mughal period, this mausoleum houses the remains of Sufi poet Jamali and his beloved companion Kamali, whose relationship has captivated historians and romantics for centuries. The tomb's unique architecture, featuring two graves placed side by side in eternal companionship, speaks to a love that transcended conventional boundaries.

Jamali, whose real name was Sheikh Fazlullah (died 1536), was a court poet during the reigns of Bahlul Lodi and Sikandar Lodi, later serving under Babur and Humayun. His poetry, filled with mystical yearning and devotion, often blurred the lines between spiritual and earthly love. The identity of Kamali remains shrouded in mystery, with some scholars suggesting the name itself means "perfect one" – a fitting epithet for a beloved companion. The tomb's inscriptions, written in Persian and Arabic, include verses that speak of undying love and spiritual union.

The monument's architectural details reinforce its romantic significance. The double tomb, unusual for its time, symbolizes an unbreakable bond that death could not sever. Constructed with red sandstone and marble inlay work characteristic of early Mughal architecture, the structure features intricate geometric patterns and calligraphic inscriptions. Local folklore has long celebrated this site as a place where true love conquers all.

2. Nizamuddin Dargah: Sacred Bonds Beyond Convention

The shrine of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya (1238-1325 CE) in South-East Delhi represents one of Islam's most celebrated examples of profound same-sex spiritual and emotional connection. Built in 1325 CE immediately after the saint's death, the dargah became the eternal resting place for one whose relationship with his disciple Amir Khusro (1253-1325 CE) has become legendary, representing a love that transcended conventional understanding.

Nizamuddin Auliya, who lived through the reigns of seven Delhi Sultans, found in Amir Khusro not just a student but a kindred spirit whose artistic genius complemented his own spiritual insights. Khusro's poetry bears witness to their intense bond. In one famous couplet, he wrote: "Bas ke dushwar hai har kaam ka aasan hona / Aadmi ko bhi muyassar nahin insaan hona" (How difficult it is for every task to become easy / Even for man to become truly human is not granted). Another verse captures his devotion: "Main to deewana tera, mujhko kya gham hai / Tu hi mera sahara, tu hi mera dam hai" (I am your devoted lover, what sorrow do I have / You are my support, you are my very breath).

Their relationship exemplified the Sufi tradition of intense spiritual partnerships that often carried homoerotic undertones. When Khusro died on October 8, 1325, Nizamuddin reportedly said he had lost his "beloved," and he himself passed away just six months later on April 3, 1325. The dargah's inclusive atmosphere, where love in all its forms is celebrated through qawwali sessions resonating through Khusro's poetry, makes it a powerful symbol of acceptance and spiritual freedom that continues to attract LGBTQ+ devotees.

3. Hijron Ki Khanqah: A Sanctuary for the Third Gender

Nestled in the historic Mehrauli area, the Hijron Ki Khanqah stands as a remarkable testament to Delhi's historical inclusivity toward gender-nonconforming individuals. Built during the 15th century (approximately 1450-1500 CE) during the late Delhi Sultanate period, this spiritual retreat served as a sanctuary for the hijra community, providing not just shelter but recognition of their important spiritual roles in society.

The khanqah was established during a period when hijras held significant positions in Delhi Sultanate and later Mughal administration and were respected for their spiritual powers. Historical records from the era show that hijras were often appointed as guardians of harems, administrators of royal households, and spiritual advisors. The khanqah served as both a living space and a center for religious instruction, where hijras could practice their faith without facing the discrimination they encountered in mainstream society.

Archaeological evidence suggests the complex, built in the Indo-Islamic architectural style with locally quarried stone and brick, included living quarters, a prayer hall, and communal spaces designed specifically for the hijra community's needs. The structure featured typical Sultanate-era elements including pointed arches, geometric patterns, and a central courtyard. The site's dedication to providing spiritual sanctuary demonstrates how transgender individuals were not only tolerated but actively supported in their religious pursuits.

Today, while the original 15th-century structure has deteriorated, local hijra communities still consider the site sacred, maintaining traditions that stretch back over five centuries.

4. Sunehri Masjid: Monument to Gender-Nonconforming Leadership

The Sunehri Masjid in Chandni Chowk represents more than architectural brilliance – it stands as a monument to the significant roles played by gender-nonconforming individuals in Mughal Delhi. Built in 1721 CE during the reign of Emperor Muhammad Shah (r. 1719-1748) by Javed Khan, a khwaja sara (court eunuch) who wielded considerable influence in the declining Mughal court, this mosque demonstrates how transgender individuals occupied positions of real power and respect.

Javed Khan, also known as Roshan-ud-Daula (literally "Light of the State"), rose through the Mughal administrative hierarchy during the early 18th century to become one of the emperor's most trusted advisors. His construction of this mosque was both an act of religious devotion and a statement of his societal position. The mosque's name, meaning "Golden Mosque," refers to its three distinctive gilded copper domes, which now have been destroyed, that caught Delhi's sunlight magnificently, symbolizing the golden age of khwaja sara influence in the Mughal court.

The three-story structure, built in red sandstone with marble inlay work, features typical Mughal architectural elements including horseshoe arches, minarets, and intricate geometric patterns. The mosque served the diverse merchant community of Chandni Chowk, but it held special significance for other khwaja saras and gender-nonconforming individuals who saw in Javed Khan a role model of success and acceptance.

Historical accounts from the period describe Javed Khan as not just an administrator but a patron of arts and culture, sponsoring poets and musicians. The mosque's enduring presence in one of Delhi's busiest commercial areas serves as a daily reminder of the historical contributions of the transgender community to the city's cultural and administrative life.

5. Tomb of Sarmad: Monument to Defiant Love

The tomb of Sarmad Kashani near Jama Masjid commemorates one of history's most compelling figures of queer resistance and spiritual defiance. Built shortly after his execution on February 14, 1661 CE during Emperor Aurangzeb's reign (1658-1707), this modest grave commemorates a 17th-century Sufi mystic whose life story – his love for a Hindu boy, his rejection of orthodox religious practices, and his eventual execution for heresy – embodies the struggles and courage of those who dared to love beyond societal boundaries.

Sarmad (c. 1590-1661) arrived in Delhi from Kashmir as a Jewish merchant but underwent a profound spiritual transformation after falling in love with a young Hindu man named Abhay Chand around 1630. This relationship scandalized conservative society, but Sarmad embraced it as part of his spiritual journey, believing that divine love manifested in all forms of human connection. He famously refused to recite the complete Islamic declaration of faith, stopping at "La ilaha" (There is no god) and refusing to add "illa Allah" (but Allah), claiming he had not yet transcended the stage of spiritual negation.

His unconventional behavior, including appearing naked in public as a sign of spiritual poverty and divine madness, challenged both religious and social norms during Aurangzeb's increasingly orthodox rule. Sarmad's poetry, written in Persian, Hindi, and Arabic, celebrated love without gender boundaries and criticized religious hypocrisy.

The simple brick tomb, built in typical 17th-century Mughal style with a modest dome, attracts pilgrims who see in his story a powerful example of living authentically despite societal pressures. The site represents the ultimate sacrifice for the right to love freely and the courage to challenge religious orthodoxy in an increasingly intolerant era.