Here's How this Saree from the 19th Century Got the Prestigious GI Tag!

Whenever we think of Bengal, we instantly picture graceful ladies draped in beautiful sarees. A Bengali woman can look absolutely magnificent in a plain saree paired with a simple touch of kajal. But what’s the secret behind this simplicity that radiates such power and elegance? How does this timeless style keep us connected to tradition and our roots, even in a society that’s evolving into an ultra-modern era? And the most interesting part is in 2024, a saree from Bengal received the prestigious GI tag. Can you guess which one? Yes, it’s the Tangail saree! Fascinating, isn’t it? But how did this seemingly simple saree come to represent the pride of West Bengal? Let’s unravel the secrets of the Tangail saree, thread by thread.

The Origins of the Tangail Saree

The Tangail saree has its roots in the Tangail district of modern-day Bangladesh. Its creation can be traced back to the late 19th century when skilled muslin weavers from Dhaka, particularly from Dhamrai and Chowhatta, migrated to Tangail. These weavers were invited by the landlords of the region, including Delduar, Santosh, and Gharinda, to bring their weaving expertise to the area. Initially, the weavers produced plain cloth, but over time, they introduced intricate designs and patterns, resulting in the beautiful sarees we recognize today. The Swadeshi movement of 1906, which sought to boycott British cotton goods, played a significant role in reviving the handloom industry in Bengal. This movement encouraged the use of local cotton, and as a result, the Tangail saree evolved to feature regional motifs and designs. By 1931-32, the introduction of Jacquard looms allowed for more complex and refined patterns to be woven into the fabric. The sarees gained popularity, not only in local markets but also among international audiences, solidifying their place in the world of fine textiles.

Weaving Method Tangail Saree

Crafting a Tangail saree is a labour of love and precision. The weaving process is primarily carried out on fly shuttle pit looms, often in family-run units where every member contributes to the craft. Traditional designs are woven using 100S cotton yarn, silk threads, or even tasar yarn, creating a balance between durability and beauty. The saree’s body is adorned with motifs or booties created with extra weft threads. The borders, often jacquard-designed, add a vibrant contrast, while the aanchal (pallu) showcases colourful patterns. One fascinating aspect of these sarees is the use of additional shuttles for intricate designs, a practice that requires both skill and patience. Each Tangail saree is folded in a distinct style known as guti bhanj to preserve its finish. This unique technique, combined with a special physical finish that eliminates reed marks (jorebhanga), gives the saree its signature look and feel. The craft is not just about weaving threads but also about weaving stories. Many weavers recount how their ancestors brought this art form from East Bengal to West Bengal during the partition and the 1971 Bangladesh Liberation War. Today, both Hindu and Muslim weavers contribute to keeping this tradition alive, showcasing communal harmony through craft.

How Tangail Sarees Received the GI Tag

After the partition of India in 1947, many Basak weavers migrated to West Bengal due to communal tensions and economic challenges. Settling in regions like Nadia, Kalna, and Shantipur, they continued their craft, often using looms brought from East Bengal or provided by the government. The sarees produced in these regions evolved into a distinct style, blending the Dhaka-Tangail weave with local techniques.

In 2020, the West Bengal State Handloom Weavers Cooperative Society Limited applied for a Geographical Indication (GI) tag to protect and promote this cultural treasure. On 2nd January 2024, the Tangail saree of Bengal, or Banglar Tangail Sari, officially received its GI certification. This recognition not only safeguards the saree’s unique identity but also boosts the livelihoods of over 20,000 weavers across West Bengal.

Meanwhile, the National Crafts Council of Bangladesh (NCCB) played a pivotal role in taking the fame of Tangail sarees to a global audience. In 2013, the NCCB successfully applied to UNESCO to certify Tangail sarees as a world heritage. Since then, the organisation has arranged numerous Tangail and Jamdani saree exhibitions, trade fairs, and initiatives to monitor production quality and improve the lives of weavers. NCCB representatives have even visited countries like India, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Jordan, and China to further promote these sarees on an international platform.

Today, there are many stalls dedicated exclusively to displaying and selling Tangail sarees, reflecting their growing demand. The GI tag has propelled these sarees into the global market, with exports soaring in recent years. Government initiatives, including financial aid and infrastructure support, aim to further strengthen this industry. Plans to organise exhibitions and promote Tangail sarees through digital platforms are already underway, ensuring that this traditional craft reaches new heights.

Why Supporting Tangail Sarees Matters

Art forms like Tangail weaving are more than just cultural assets, they’re livelihoods. By choosing a Tangail saree, you’re not just embracing a beautiful piece of heritage; you’re also supporting the weavers who pour their heart and soul into every thread. In today’s fast-paced world, where “fast fashion” dominates, handwoven sarees like Tangail stand as a reminder of the value of patience, tradition, and authenticity. Investing in a Tangail saree means cherishing a story that began over a century ago and continues to inspire. So, next time you’re looking to add a touch of Bengal’s heritage to your collection, remember the Tangail saree. After all, If we don't keep our culture alive, then who will?!