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Image Courtesy: Paper Planes
With little state support, few serious collectors, and rare public curiosity, Gujarat’s art circuit has long appeared anaemic, almost forgotten in the country’s cultural discourse. Unlike Delhi or Mumbai, where biennales, residencies, and private museums strive to keep contemporary art visible, cities like Ahmedabad are often overlooked. Galleries sit empty, artists struggle to find platforms, and public funding rarely prioritises creative expression beyond the decorative or devotional.
Beneath the surface of Ahmedabad lies a space that appears to be nothing like a gallery and feels nothing like one either.
The Cave That Ahmedabad Didn’t See Coming
Amdavad ni Gufa was the result of an unlikely but electric collaboration between architect B. V. Doshi and artist M. F. Husain. Built in the early ’90s, the structure curves and swells like a living organism, part termite mound, part ancient cave. Made with ferrocement and covered in broken mosaic tiles, its exterior invites curiosity. Step inside, and Husain’s murals, bold, mythological, playful, wrap themselves around the undulating walls, lit only by shafts of natural light slipping in through snout-like skylights.
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But this is not just an architectural oddity; it’s a quiet protest. Gujarat, despite its deep cultural legacy in temple sculpture, miniature painting, and handloom traditions, has offered little space for contemporary art to breathe. Unlike the institutional backing seen in Delhi or the collector-driven buzz of Mumbai, the state’s visual art scene has often struggled with neglect. The Gufa doesn’t try to fix that through convention. It digs deep, literally and metaphorically, into what art can be, reviving Ahmedabad’s creative pulse through a structure that refuses to play by the rules.
Gufa Ma Ghumti Kala (Art That Wanders in the Cave)
What sets Amdavad ni Gufa apart is its sense of vibrancy. This isn’t your typical gallery with white walls and quiet corners; it’s a space that moves with you. The cave-like structure encourages visitors to meander, to look up at a painting one moment and trace a shadow the next. Its unique charm lies in this fluid experience, where art is not hung, it’s embedded into the walls, the floor, the atmosphere. The Gufa regularly showcases contemporary exhibitions, experimental media, and works by emerging artists from across India. It’s also become a gathering ground for workshops, discussions, and creative collaborations. In a city where visual arts rarely take centre stage, this underground world offers a refreshing, and very Gujarati, twist: calm on the outside, but full of colour and chaos within.
Art That Rises, Yet Remains Unfinished
Despite its striking presence, Amdavad ni Gufa faces a quiet struggle to stay relevant. Its maintenance often falls through the cracks, with its unusual design needing constant care that's rarely prioritised. Without regular exhibitions or outreach, it risks becoming more of a photo-op than a functioning art space. While the cave’s organic form is celebrated for its originality, it also limits the kind of shows that can be hosted, especially those needing digital infrastructure or scale.
These gaps are not isolated; they mirror the wider decline of contemporary art spaces across India. Beyond the art circles of Delhi or Mumbai, smaller cities often lack the funding, infrastructure, and public interest needed to sustain alternative cultural venues. In Gujarat, where traditional art forms and religious tourism dominate the cultural landscape, experimental spaces like the Gufa operate in the shadows. Without intentional support and renewed investment, these spaces may gradually disappear, taking with them the vibrant artistic voices they once nurtured.
Where Silence Speaks Through Art
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Amdavad ni Gufa stands not just as a gallery, but as a quiet statement in a region where modern art often struggles to find space. Its winding structure and layered visuals offer a rare invitation to pause, to engage, to experience art without pretence. Though it risks being forgotten or reduced to a curiosity, its presence is proof that unconventional spaces still matter. In a country where creative freedom often finds itself boxed in, the Gufa offers a reminder: even beneath the surface, powerful ideas can take root, so long as we remember to nurture them.