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Jewellery from the Indus Valley Civilisation
There is a new jewellery style visible these days - especially on the wrist and around the neck, and it resembles a snake. It has been more than two and a half months since the Bvlgari Serpenti Infinito exhibition in Mumbai took place and which showcased the cross-culture between Bvlgari's iconic Serpenti motif and the traditional Indian symbolism of the snake, and over 75 works by 23 acclaimed Indian and international artists, but it seems to have left something behind as a growing culture.
Ricky Vasandani, from Solitario, which offers serpentine pieces, calls the "validation by high-fashion luxury houses and celebrities" one of the reasons for the serpentine jewellery trend. "(We have) introduced to leverage the timeless, rich symbolism of the serpent (transformation, eternity) favoured by the high-end market," Vasandani, the CEO and co-founder of the brand, says, calling the move "strategic" to meet the strong demand for statement, which is currently trending in fashion.
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The growing popularity of serpentine jewellery, for Namita Kothari, who owns Akoirah by Augmont, also reflects a broader shift towards bold, symbolic and statement-driven designs. "Consumers today are drawn to motifs that carry meaning and individuality, moving away from purely decorative forms," she says, adding that the serpent has strong cultural and global resonance, and its fluid silhouette translates well into modern jewellery design. "Social media and international fashion cues have also played a role in reviving interest in expressive motifs that feel powerful yet elegant," she adds.
The cultural rise, however, is also being attributed to the trend of going beyond aesthetics. "Serpentine forms are visually striking, and rich in symbolism, making them appealing across jewellery and accessory categories," says Indian Gem & Jewellery Creation.
The 'naga' culture
Even as the Indian brand taps into the demand by creating more affordable alternatives to the serpentine jewellery of the luxury fashion labels, they have been aiming to reiterate how such a cultural rise does not surprise them, as the design has been instrumental to the globe and has influenced global fashion choices.
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"The serpentine trend is gaining momentum, with brands like Cartier, Boucheron, and Bulgari incorporating snake-inspired designs. The motif symbolises rebirth, transformation, and renewal," Abhishek Kajaria, the owner of Avama Jewellers, says, adding, "Snakes are revered in cultures like Egyptian and Greek mythologies."
Culturally, the serpent has deep mythological and spiritual significance across civilisations, making it a powerful storytelling element, Yogesh Soni, the director of Punamchand Jewellers, notes. Similarly, jewellery brand owner Bharti Bangur says, "Serpentine designs translate well visually and photograph beautifully, making them especially relevant in today’s social and digital-first landscape."
However, snakes or nagas and their influence on design in jewellery have also been instrumental in the Indian subcontinent. Pratik Dugar, the director of Indian Gem & Jewellery Creation, while talking about the serpentine collection, says, "The serpent has long represented power, protection, and renewal, especially within Indian mythology. We wanted to reinterpret this timeless motif in a contemporary form, focusing on fluidity, movement, and refined craftsmanship."
Reportedly, there has also been the earliest evidence of serpent worship, which has linked snakes to precious gems, resulting in snake-inspired jewellery. As per a report, it was also evident since the Indus Valley Civilisation, with designs like the 'coiled Nagapadathali' necklace, which would adorn deities, along with royalty, and brides.
'The trend might become timeless'
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Observing the growing trend of such pieces globally, the jewellery traders are expecting it to grow, while some have already started reporting the positive sales out of the serpentine collection. "The serpentine designs of rings, the statement brooch, among others, have seen encouraging interest since launch," Namita Kothari says about the collection launch at the Akoirah by Augmont. However, Kothari also adds that these are not "volume-driven products" yet.
For Solitario's Ricky Vasandani, the sales are "robust" and currently exceeding expectations for a new two-month-old collection, launched by the brand, as he says. "It is a timeless classic symbol, and, not a fleeting trend, that is experiencing a period of high popularity," he says, however, believing that it will remain a core fixture in luxury jewellery.
Along with Indian Gem & Jewellery Creation, the owner of 'Bharti Bangur- Fine Jewels' also states that serpentine-inspired designs are working well as statement pieces, but also highlights how it is still not a mass-driven style yet. "The serpentine piece has seen strong interest as a statement buy, particularly among clients looking for distinctive, contemporary designs. While not a mass-driven style, it has performed well within our statement jewellery category and continues to attract design-conscious buyers," says
But for Punamchand Jewellers' Yogesh Soni, it has already emerged as a strong conversation starter and a key design highlight within their collection, as he shares.
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