'Onam Sadya Culture not the Same in Kerala as in Metro Cities': Masterchef Bala Subramanian on Preparing 56 Dishes

"You or anyone here in Mumbai would not be able to have an actual 56-dish Sadya, but people in Kerala actually can," shares Masterchef Bala Subramanian, as we converse about the cultural differences in the metro cities and Kerala, as the background of banana leaves and the aroma of Onam Sadya fills the room.

Here at South of Vindhyas, which carries a 12-year-old legacy, Mr. Subramanian, who has been working here for more than two decades, has once again prepared the 56-dish Onam Sadya, an art he has not learned at home but from years of travel experience across the country and abroad. He moved from Chennai, his hometown, to Singapore at a young age to master the culinary art, stating that he carries "South India" everywhere.

Perhaps that is how he also came back to the country, not diluting his South Indian soul. Even then, how could he claim to be preparing the authentic Kerala's Onam Sadya, belonging to Chennai and despite a global exposure. "It goes to the community. The years of togetherness with the Kerala community have helped me learn this," he says, adding that even during his stay outside the country, he learnt the cuisines of four states, namely, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Kerala.

From other countries, however, he observed differences in the cleanliness, hygiene, and operations. "Even their presentations are beautiful as compared to the majority of the average restaurants here, as they (chefs) have ample resources," he says, adding that there has been a lack of that for the Indian chefs.

Grand presentation, a new culture away from the state

Starting today, South of Vindhyas, located in Vile Parle's The Orchid, will welcome patrons, where they will be presented with the 56 options of Kerala food within the melodious tunes being played by three musicians sitting here, with a backdrop of a Kathakali dancer on the banner. Within the decor representing Nalukettu - traditional houses in Kerala - and wood-accented interiors embellished with the banana leaves, there are dishes ranging from salads to multiple Pyasams. 

Presented in the buffet style, it is hardly a buffet for food but a direct transportation to the heartland of the 'God's own country' through its culinary epic and gravies. Laid out here are crisp upperi (banana chips), golden jackfruit chips, airy coconut-flavoured achappam, and the sweet nostalgia of unniappam. The journey begins with irresistible festive starters — crisp upperi (banana chips), golden jackfruit chips, airy coconut-flavoured achappam, and the sweet nostalgia of unniappam.

Add to this the lacy appams, flaky Malabari parathas, lemon and coconut sevai, with a sweet display of Ada Pradhamam, Golden Nei Payasam, Pal Payasam, Kozhikodan halwa, along with traditional indulgences like pazham puri and panchamrutham. 

Such a huge presentation is not a new phenomenon, however, and can be seen in the many South-Indian outlets in metro cities that are aiming to create the "experience" of festivals like Onam. For at least a decade, there has been much chatter around such representations of the festivals that are not home to the metro cities. 

Whether or not one finds the regional touch in such preparations, the chefs sell the idea of "authenticity". For Mr. Subramanian, it is a smooth process. He orders the required quantity well in advance. "From coconut oil, chips variety to vegetables, I book them with Kerala suppliers. The items are transported from Kerala and reach Mumbai within a day," he says. "Raw bananas get ripe by the time they reach here."

Acknowledging that the Kerala natives throng the place on the main day of Onam, but always along with people from other communities, he still keeps himself away from appealing to the taste of other communities than Keralites for Onam Sadya. "Shetty is Shetty and Patil is Patil," says the chef with a grin on his face, commenting on how there is no need to change the authenticity of the food just to adapt to a region's culture.

'Showcase of Sadya not the same in Kerala'

As per Mr. Subramanian, it is a result of the Indian families travelling more than ever before. "People travel and expect such an experience in their own cities; hence, such a concept is working quite well." While historically, there is no mandate for the 56 dishes to be presented on Onam, for the chef, it feels to be a necessity. "It starts from the salt and ends with the Payasam."

What the chef argues is that such a culture exists only in the bigger, metro cities and not in the state of Kerala. Taking an instance of South of Vindhyas, he says, "Here, the food is served with a 'dignity' where one has the option of taking the food on the plate and eating as required, in Kerala, it is served on a leaf." "For as many as a 56-dish presentation, it is only possible in the communities, mandals and sometimes, temples where the food is almost thrown to the leaves," he adds. 

The reason is simple, as the masterchef shares. "The homes in Kerala only prepare 2-3 dishes, mainly Sambhar, Thoran, Avial, Paripu curry, Red rice, and Puris for Sadya; it is only these civic spots preparing large feasts for free distribution." In restaurants, there are hardly 4-5 dishes, and it is only in the metropolitan states like Mumbai that such experiences are created, he adds.

Talking to Local Samosa, the chefs discuss how there lies a contrast in the cultures to be different. "As a matter of fact, it is the Kerala natives who can actually eat, let's say, 56 dishes, not the people sitting in Mumbai, as we don't have such an appetite."

Additionally, there is a lot of misinformation about the South-Indian cultures outside South India, reiterating how the cultural stereotypes exist not just in the movies but also in the food. "Most North Indians think of South-Indian food as only Idlis or Dosas; they get a surprise when they visit places like (for instance) Palakkad," he laughs, yet says, "The unifying bond among states and even social hierarchies is the quest to experience the culture for which people - even belonging to the middle classes - are interested in paying for a food feast like this (referring to his Sadya's initiative at South of Vindhyas)." The cost per individual for the buffet stands at Rs. 2,999.

But out of these dishes, what does the chef crave? "Only Thoran, Sambhar, rice, Ulli Theeyal!" "Isse bhi kam, daal aur chawal hi kaafi hai (Even rice and pulses are enough for me)," he says and chuckles.