Naqqashi of Lucknow: Reviving the Lost Hand-Engraved Art Once Embraced by Every Nawab

Discover Naqqashi, Lucknow’s traditional metal engraving art seen on paandaans, tracing its Nawabi roots, fading legacy, and the artisans who still keep it alive.

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Tiyasa Das
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Naqqashi

Image Courtesy: the color caravan

Have you ever seen an old Nawab delicately eating his paan? The entire ritual unfolds like a scene from a vintage film. The Begum hands him a finely wrapped paan, placed ever-so-gracefully in a gleaming metal box. But here’s the secret—those paandaans weren’t just containers. They were treasures. What if we told you those boxes are as precious as the Nawabs themselves?

The Lucknowi Legacy of the Nawabs

Lucknowi Legacy
Image Courtesy: Aliza Noor & the color caravan 

Each one holds the story of Naqqashi—the art of intricate hand-engraving, known elsewhere in the world as Repoussé. In India, this craft took root during the Nawabi era, introduced by artisans who migrated from Iran. What began as an elite indulgence soon became a hallmark of Lucknow’s luxurious lifestyle. From paandaans (betel boxes) to khaasdaans (serving trays) and ughaldaans (spittoons), every engraved piece reflected the city’s unmatched finesse, grace, and hospitality. By the 18th century, Naqqashi had deeply embedded itself into the soul of Lucknow. The craft wasn’t just art—it was livelihood, heritage, and pride. Local artisans found eager patrons in British officers, Mughal nobility, and merchants across North India. A simple gesture—offering paan from a Naqqashi-adorned box—became a symbol of sophistication.

hand-engraving  Naqqashi paandaans
Image Courtesy: Lucknow me & the color caravan 

And oh, the craftsmanship! It all begins with metal sheets—traditionally copper, brass, or silver, though today sometimes aluminium or steel—sourced from towns like Mathura, Moradabad, and Jagadhri. These sheets are then shaped and passed into the hands of seasoned artisans. Seated over wooden blocks (moussandi) with iron slabs (nihai), they chisel for hours using kalam (engraving pen), hathoda (hammer), prakaar (compass), and khakha (paper stencils). Two main styles emerge: ubhaar naqqashi (raised patterns) and jaalidaar naqqashi (cut-out work), each with its own elegance and complexity.

Imagine crescent moons, blooming lotuses, and stars scattered like poetry across metal—all painstakingly hand-carved. Earlier, designs were deeply ornate and intricate, but with changing tastes and commercial pressures, they’ve become more minimal—yet still rich in symbolism. Once everyday items for washing hands, storing water, or preparing paan, these engraved wares are now largely ceremonial—given at weddings, or displayed in homes as heirlooms. Today, while the world moves fast, a few corners of Lucknow still pulse with the rhythm of heritage. Walk through Yahiyaganj, Aminabad, Chowk, or Bartan Bazaar, and you might still hear the soft tap-tap of hammers on metal—the heartbeat of Naqqashi, kept alive by a handful of artisans who refuse to let this Nawabi legacy fade into silence.

The Legacy of Rajesh Kumar Verma

In the bustling lanes of Bartan Bazar, Ahiyaganj Market, Rajesh Kumar Verma continues to uphold the traditions of his forefathers. Having dedicated over 55 years to Naqqashi, his hands narrate tales of perseverance and passion. Each engraved paandaan he crafts is not just a product but a piece of history, echoing the grandeur of a bygone era. Despite the challenges—dwindling demand, minimal financial returns, and the lure of alternative professions—Rajesh remains steadfast. His commitment isn't just to the craft but to preserving a legacy that defines Lucknow's cultural fabric.

The Artistry of Zawwar Hussain

Tucked away in Tarkari Mandi, Chowk, lies the workshop of Zawwar Hussain, a seventh-generation Naqqashi artisan. His family's journey traces back to Iran, migrating to the courts of Awadh centuries ago. Over the past 30 years, Zawwar has honed his skills, producing exquisite pieces that capture the essence of Naqqashi. Yet, the future remains uncertain. Aware of the craft's declining viability, Zawwar hesitates to pass the baton to his son, prioritising formal education over traditional artistry. The challenges—meagre earnings, lack of recognition, and the dominance of mass-produced items—cast a shadow over this illustrious art form.

Reviving the Naqqashi in Nawabi Style

royal unique gifts
Image Courtesy: the color caravan

Once the pride of every drawing room and daawat, the humble paandaan has now been pushed to the back of the almirah—or worse, replaced by plastic boxes and paper napkins. Naqqashi, the art that once whispered tales of elegance and hospitality, now echoes faintly through a few stubborn hammers in old Lucknow gullies. So next time you walk past an old shop in Lucknow, you see one of these metal marvels, don’t just walk past—ask about it, talk about it, maybe even bring one home. Who knows? You might just feel a little Nawabi yourself.

Can’t make it to Lucknow? Indianshelf offers a beautiful range of handcrafted tinned copper paandaans that reflect the same intricate artistry of Naqqashi. Each piece is a celebration of tradition, designed to bring a touch of royal elegance into your modern home.

You can also explore StoryLTD, where rare collectable Naqqashi items—like antique betel boxes—are curated for connoisseurs and heritage lovers alike. Their limited pieces are not just products, but preserved chapters of India’s regal past.

Another gem is Ashtok, known for its embossed copper paandaans and utility wares. Their creations merge age-old craftsmanship with everyday use, helping to keep the Nawabi legacy alive, one engraved piece at a time.

naqqashi art Naqqashi Repoussé intricate hand-engraving traditional metal engraving Naqqashi of Lucknow