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In the ongoing Bvlgari Serpenti Infinito Exhibition at Mumbai's NMACC, what is evident, along with Bvlgari's iconic Serpenti symbol, is how it has been confluenced with the cultural significance of the serpent (nāga) in India, which is on display, showcasing the historic jewellery to suit the contemporary art from both Indian and international artists.
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This "contemporary art", however, evidently carries the many glimpses of the past - and that is what the majority of the Indian jewellery brands are aiming for to suit the Indian palette and the mood. "I want my designs to harness the energies of mythology......That is why we do deep and detailed research into myths, symbols, and cultural meanings," Tiara Dhody, the founder of Treasures by Tiara, says.
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Some of the Treasures by Tiara's collection include pieces like the Om’s Shakti pendant, drawing from sacred iconography, the symbol of Om surrounded by ruby and diamond petals representing "divine energy and awakening". "The Crownkeeper and Triune Crown pieces are inspired by ancient kingship and celestial sovereignty, coins and gems that carry the weight of forgotten empires and divine right. Meanwhile, the Sunburst Pendant captures the essence of the sun — a universal mythic symbol of creation, life, and power," the founder says, adding, "these aren’t just designs; they are wearable myths — miniature stories that connect the wearer to something timeless".
From trends to tapping into them
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For the collections to be rooted in the mythic storytelling and symbolism, the brands are well researching the trends, especially among the younger generation. Working with the karigars from Kolkata who have passed down the jewellery-making techniques for generations, Senco Gold & Diamonds boasts its Everlite Shakti series - conceived through the lens of Devi Agomoni and the many faces of goddess worship across India - and shares that their Siyaram Collection, "beautifully marries the ethereal bond of Sri Rama and Sita with delicate craftsmanship".
Talking to Local Samosa, Joita Sen from the brand highlights the trends. "Mythology-inspired jewellery, especially temple jewellery, will always be relevant, especially among the younger generation drawing inspiration from India’s rich and diverse heritage. we see a demand for such jewellery for various occasions."
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Stating the demands, Sen further says, "Another interesting aspect is that these designs inspired by our mythology and local traditions are no longer region specific but widely appreciated and accepted by people across borders. Pendants with deities, nature-inspired motifs and more are becoming very popular."
Young bringing the old
Kabir Kate from Solitario Diamonds clarifies the reasons for such a demand. "Social media, period dramas, and even pop culture have amplified this shift, as people are connecting to the narratives of strength, divinity, and legacy that mythology offers. This movement also reflects a broader trend of Indian heritage meeting contemporary expression."
There is no doubt that another factor to has ignited this trend has been the recent Anant Ambani wedding that remained the talk of the town for several months, and celebrities garnered attention for the heritage jewellery.
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While Kareena Kapoor, Ivanka Trump, and Sonam Kapoor were seen with emerald and diamond pieces, Janhvi Kapoor was captured wearing gold temple jewellery. Even Alia Bhatt accessorised with a Sunita Shekhawat set featuring intricate Meenakari enamelling and uncut diamonds. On the other hand, this lineup also included international artists like Kim Kardashian wearing heritage pieces.
While Solitario Diamonds primarily makes modern, luxury jewellery, Kate mentions how their design process involves insights from gemologists, trend forecasters, cultural researchers, and artisans. He also hints at going for the mythological inspirations. "When we do it, it will not be a replication of heritage; it will be reimagination, bringing divine symbolism into designs that resonate with a new-age consumer."
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Similarly, another brand, Jewelbox is primarily focused on modern designs but also shares that their approach is "to reinterpret mythological elements with subtlety". Talking about her observations, Vidita Kochar, the co-founder of the brand, says, "There’s a beautiful resurgence of storytelling in jewellery today, and mythology-inspired designs are a natural part of that evolution. Consumers are seeking deeper meaning in what they wear."
Emphasising one such element that are catching the youth's attention, Kochar says, "Mythological motifs offer a sense of emotion and identity, blending cultural nostalgia with modern craftsmanship." She is of the view that, in many ways, these "allow wearers to carry a piece of timeless mythology into contemporary life, a perfect balance of tradition and trend".