The Resurgence of Indian Cotton: How Khadi Is Back In Vogue This Summer

As mercury rises and humidity settles in, fashion's collective conscience turns towards breathable fabrics. In this season's textile landscape, where synthetic marvels and tech-infused weaves compete for attention, a quiet revolution is unfolding—Khadi, India's heritage handspun cotton, which has reemerged with contemporary panache. Once the uniform of revolutionaries and nationalists, this humble fabric now struts confidently across global catwalks. With its distinctive texture and earthbound sensibility, Khadi has evolved from political statement to fashion-forward declaration. The fabric that once clothed a revolution is now sparking sartorial conversations worldwide.

"Khadi, to me, is not just a fabric—it's a movement, a symbol of resilience, simplicity, and craftsmanship," says fashion designer Ritu Beri who is also an adviser to the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), a part of the Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises, Government of India. "I often use khadi as a canvas to tell new stories, pairing it with contemporary silhouettes, intricate embellishments, and unexpected pairings. By doing so, I aim to reposition it from a symbol of nostalgia to one of relevance."

Where once Khadi languished in government emporiums and heritage boutiques, relegated to ceremonial kurtas and political photo-ops, it now enjoys pride of place in fashion-forward wardrobes. The new avatars of this age-old weave grace the Instagram feeds of style influencers and populate the shelves of cutting-edge concept stores. This isn't merely a nostalgic revival; it's a sophisticated reinvention that honours tradition while embracing modernity's creative possibilities.

A Fabric Reborn

Behind this textile renaissance stands a cadre of visionary designers and handloom enthusiasts determined to reimagine Khadi's place in the contemporary wardrobe. Their collective mission blends preservation with bold innovation.

Kriti Srivastava, Professor at NIFT Kangra, says that new budding designers are also turning towards khadi as a linen fabric option for traditional and modern traditional wear. "Our summers are long and humid," she notes. "Khadi naturally lends itself to this climate, and we are now wanting to show that it can be chic too. I have noticed wrap skirts and boxy crop tops inspired by tribal motifs in our monthly drills by students and practising designers in our school. Khadi clothes work just as well on an urban brunch table as in a museum." The resurgence of Khadi as a motif in earthy palette, drawn from natural dyes like marigold, turmeric, and iron-black in NIFT fashion showdowns, is a testament to its eco-forward ethos.

Shanti Devi, a third-generation handloom wholesaler from Keonjhar, echoes the sentiment. "Demand has doubled in the last two years," she reveals. "Designers now ask for experimental textures—matka khadi, twisted yarns, even metallic-thread blends. They want the story, yes, but they also want it to feel luxurious." Her family-run cooperative supports over 300 artisans across reputed brands like Boyanika, Kalamandir Royale, to name a few, many of whom have returned to weaving after years of disengagement.

This focus on circularity and craftsmanship is critical. As Ritu Beri puts it, "Sustainability is not a trend—it's a responsibility. We prioritise natural fibres, work with artisan communities, and maintain low-waste production models. Upcycling, zero-waste pattern cutting, and using non-toxic dyes are integral practices in our studio."

In fashion's eternal quest for authentic luxury, Khadi has emerged as the unlikely hero—its imperfections and handcrafted heritage now commanding premium prices and devoted followings. No longer relegated to shapeless silhouettes, the versatile weave now manifests in razor-sharp blazers, fluid evening gowns, and gender-fluid ensembles that defy categorisation. Even India's retail giants have taken notice—Fabindia's latest capsule collection presents deconstructed Khadi shirts and relaxed palazzo trousers pitched squarely at millennial sensibilities, while heritage brand Raw Mango explores Khadi-jamdani fusions that elevate traditional techniques to collector-worthy status.

Why Designers Are Choosing Khadi Again

The once-humble cloth has transcended its heritage associations. At Lakmē Fashion Week 2025, architectural jackets, meticulously coordinated separates, and billowing resort wear—all crafted from Khadi—commanded the runway, styled with avant-garde trainers and statement eyewear. Simultaneously, European fashion capitals from Copenhagen to Moscow showcased the textile in fluid, minimalist silhouettes that married Eastern craftsmanship with Western design sensibilities.

"Modern audiences seek depth and story in what they wear," says Ritu Beri, "and I strive to offer them pieces that are both rooted and radical."

India's design vanguard—names like Suket Dhir, Lovebirds, and Abraham & Thakore—have repositioned handspun cotton as the ultimate canvas for relaxed tailoring and sophisticated leisurewear. With its distinctive textural character, inherent breathability, and temperature-regulating properties, Khadi has become the thinking person's summer essential. This renaissance is actively nurtured by the Centre of Excellence for Khadi (CoEK), a collaborative initiative between the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) and NIFT that fosters experimental partnerships between contemporary designers and traditional artisan communities.

As Sunil Sethi, Chairman of FDCI, shared at Lakmē's 25-year celebration, "Khadi is not just fabric—it represents our heritage, sustainability, and craftsmanship."

Beyond the glittering showcases, unassuming labels like Bengal-based Anuprerna are democratising Khadi for everyday elegance. Their limited-edition cotton collections—produced using chemical-free dyes and hand-operated looms—deliver refined aesthetics alongside impeccable environmental credentials. The movement extends beyond cotton alone. Recent presentations from the Khadi India initiative have spotlighted innovative blends incorporating cotton, Eri silk, and indigenous wool varieties from diverse regions, including Assam, Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, and Tamil Nadu—celebrating the subcontinent's rich tapestry of handloom traditions for discerning global consumers.

The Future Is Handspun

In an era defined by ecological reckoning and conscious consumption, Khadi has found its cultural moment. From political symbol to globally coveted textile, its renaissance speaks volumes about fashion's evolving priorities—thoughtfulness over throwaway, heritage over hype, and narrative richness over novelty alone.

For sustainability-minded brands and consumers seeking to minimise their environmental footprint, Khadi presents a compelling proposition: zero electricity consumption in production, complete biodegradability, ethical handcrafting practices, and cultivation methods that conserve precious water resources. Yet its allure extends beyond measurable metrics into the realm of emotional connection. Ritu Beri captures this spirit best: "Khadi, to me, is not just a fabric—it's a movement, a symbol of resilience, simplicity, and craftsmanship."

Whether through grassroots artisan collectives in Gujarat's Bhuj region, Odisha's indigenous dye communities, or the rarefied atmosphere of international fashion exhibitions, Khadi's contemporary evolution represents more than a passing trend. It signals a fundamental shift in fashion's direction—towards thoughtful creation, cultural respect, and uncompromising style. Khadi has returned triumphantly to the global stage, and this time, it transcends mere statement-making to establish an enduring legacy for generations to come.