Sacred Simplicity Ticks Modern Boxes in Odisha’s Kartik Habisha Cuisine

In the pre-dawn darkness of Kartik month, thousands of women clad in white make their way to the Jagannath Temple in Puri, their devotion culminating in a single daily meal that embodies centuries of spiritual practice. This is Habisha cuisine — a culinary tradition so intertwined with faith that it transforms eating into an act of worship.

The month of Kartik, typically falling between October and November, is considered the holiest in the Hindu lunar calendar. Devotees partake in only one meal daily, consumed in the afternoon before sunset. What makes this tradition remarkable is not merely its asceticism, but the sophisticated gastronomic philosophy it represents: food as spiritual discipline, nourishment as devotion, and simplicity as the ultimate refinement.

Ancient Roots in Temple Kitchens

The tradition's antiquity is embedded in Odisha's religious landscape, where life orbits around Lord Jagannath. The practice gained institutional strength through temple cuisine, particularly the Mahaprasad served at Puri's 12th-century shrine. Predominantly observed by women, Habisha creates a supportive community structure that has sustained this cuisine across generations.

"Habisa did not evolve as a temple tradition; it might have started there or mushroomed around it, but it was the women of Puri who, in their household kitchens, made this into a cultural element. Habisyalis of Puri, may they be of any community, created a system for the widows, for the women and for the many more who followed this month-long worship," Abala Kumar Mohanty, ex-professor of sociology at BJB College, Bhubaneswar, said.

"Habisa, from a bird's eye view, might seem like only a gastronomical experience, but there is so much more to it. It informs about the agrarian cycle, that of autumn's end and of the rice fields being ready for harvest. It also informs about austerity and nourishment in a single meal, allowing the body to be able to fight back the seasonal transition into winter," he adds.

Habisha cuisine operates on calculated elimination. Strict dietary restrictions exclude vegetables like brinjal, cauliflower, and tomato, whilst avoiding onion and garlic entirely. The signature dish, Habisha Dalma, is prepared without onion, garlic, turmeric, or mustard oil, using unroasted moong dal and vegetables like raw banana, colocasia, and elephant apple for tartness.

Home Chefs Keeping Tradition Alive

In contemporary Odisha, home chefs like Alisa Suryatapa have become crucial custodians of this tradition, bridging ancient practice and modern presentation. "To me, the month of Kartik is a time of purity, devotion, and self-discipline," says Suryatapa, a food influencer. "I still remember my mum waking up before sunrise to attend the Mangal Arti at the temple — that memory reminds me of the devotion and peace this month brings."

"What makes these dishes distinct from everyday Odia cooking is their purity and simplicity; they are prepared without onion, garlic, or masala powders," she explains. "Instead, the flavours come from salt, cumin, ginger, and ghee, which bring a natural aroma and lightness. The cooking methods are also very gentle: slow cooking in earthen pots, minimal oil, and a focus on satvik balance."

From Home Kitchens to Restaurant Tables

This preservation effort has extended beyond home kitchens. Tanaya Patnaik, owner of Odraa restaurant in Bhubaneswar, has brought Habisha cuisine into a fine dining context. "Habisha has always been on our minds since we started because my sister Talina and I love Habisha ourselves," she says.

Translating this intimate experience into a restaurant setting required careful navigation. "Some things are non-negotiable. They say that Bidesi [foreign] vegetables are not used. Saaru [elephant foot yam] is used a lot." She brought in a woman from Puri who observes the fast annually to teach her chef the proper method.

Patnaik sees her restaurant's offering as democratising access. "A lot of people who are not Odias come from outside, maybe they would like to try it. We try to keep it as authentic as possible. It's an experience. The taste should be authentic."

Both women see enormous potential for Habisha cuisine beyond Odisha. Suryatapa believes it needs "greater awareness and creative presentation sharing its stories, values, and health benefits through food festivals, social media, and collaborations with chefs. If we present Habisa cuisine not just as a ritual but as a way of conscious living, it can easily find appreciation worldwide for its simplicity, balance, and purity."

Ancient Wisdom Meets Modern Wellness

Perhaps the most striking aspect of Habisha cuisine is how this centuries-old tradition prefigures contemporary wellness movements. Patnaik makes this explicit: "Nowadays, all the trend is around intermittent fasting. So when we do this, those who really follow it eat once a day. That's intermittent fasting. You have these anti-inflammatory diets — here, there is no onion, no garlic, there is no masala."

The nutritional architecture is remarkably sound: ghee for fat, rice for carbs, and dal for protein. It is inherently plant-based, low in inflammatory triggers, and promotes mindful eating, all principles that modern nutritional science validates.

The sustainability credentials are embedded in every aspect. Very few ingredients are used, eliminating food waste. Cooking methods are gentle and energy-efficient. The single daily meal reduces consumption. The absence of processed ingredients or imported spices makes it inherently local and seasonal. What contemporary food movements struggle to achieve through conscious effort, Habisha cuisine has embodied for centuries through spiritual practice.

Whether consumed in devotion at a temple or savoured at an urban restaurant like Odraa, Habisha cuisine retains its essential quality: food stripped to its purest form, elevated by intent. In an age of culinary excess, it offers something rare, the profound satisfaction of restraint, and proof that the most sustainable diet might just be the oldest one.