Delhi’s Coal And Wood-Fired Tandoors at Crossroads As Government Imposes Ban To Curb ‘Pollution’

Delhi's iconic tandoors, the blazing clay ovens that produce perfectly charred naan, succulent tikkas and smoky chaaps, are undergoing a dramatic transformation. 

In early December 2025, the Delhi Pollution Control Committee (DPCC) imposed a comprehensive ban on coal and firewood use in tandoors across all restaurants, dhabas and street eateries. Under the Graded Response Action Plan (GRAP), establishments must immediately switch to gas or electric alternatives. The DPCC has deployed enforcement teams citywide, with violators facing fines up to Rs. 5,000 and potential closure orders.

The rationale is straightforward from a policy vantage point; coal-fired cooking contributes significantly to particulate matter emissions, particularly PM2.5 and PM10, which spike dangerously during Delhi's winter months when the Air Quality Index (AQI) regularly exceeds 400, classified as "severe". Officials estimate that approximately 15,000 coal-burning tandoors operate across Delhi, collectively releasing tons of smoke daily into an already choking atmosphere.

The Heavy Impact on Small Businesses

The financial shock is immediate and brutal for small operators. "We've been running this place for 30 years on coal," says Mohammad Mushtaq, owner of Mushtaq Kebab Corner behind Jama Masjid in Delhi, "Now they're asking us to shell out Rs. 80,000 for a proper gas setup. Where's that money coming from? My daily profit is barely Rs. 2,000."

At a roadside stall near Nehru Place, Deepak Kumar who sells Litti Chokha to all office workers all day long is equally distressed. "The whole charm is the coal fire. It's also so affordable for me. That smoky taste, the crackling sound, customers come for that experience. Gas tandoors? They're sterile. It's like asking a dhaba to become a five-star.”

Restaurant owner of Sameer’s Kabab Corner, Sameer Pal, from CR Park Market no 2, offers a pragmatic view: "Look, we saw this coming. We've already started investing Rs. 1.2 lakh in an electric tandoor setup, which will arrive in a month or so. The running costs are higher though, about Rs. 240 daily and Rs. 350-400 on weekend rush, versus Rs. 150 for coal, the upfront hit is massive. Smaller places or places which cater to smaller audiences simply can't afford it."

Customers Weigh In on Taste and Experts on Faults in the Perspectives

Customers are divided. Priya, who was having a kebab at the CR Park joint, weighed in about the taste from, "Tandoori without coal and sigdi? That is laughable. The whole point is that charred, smoky vibe." 

“I was wondering how this ban will affect the AQI in terms of improvement? I get it at a macro level, but at a micro level, this will just affect smaller joints that have no other option but to make these makeshift tandoors. Half of Delhi’s culinary cuisines are tandoor based, naans, kebabs, etc., how will these smaller joints afford to make them with better setups,” weighs in Rajiv Malhotra, another customer.

Dr. Ravi Chopra, an environmental scientist, provides context, "Coal tandoors emit approximately 2.5 kg of PM2.5 per hour during peak operation. Multiply that by thousands of establishments, and you're looking at a significant pollution source, roughly 3-5% of Delhi's total particulate load. However, this ban addresses only one piece of a complex puzzle. Unless we tackle vehicular emissions, which account for 40%, construction dust at 20%, and stubble burning contributing another 30% during winter, the air quality improvements will be marginal at best."

A Messy And Uneven Transition 

The transition is messy and uneven. In affluent areas, bigger restaurants will swiftly adopt electric tandoors with minimal fuss. But in working-class neighbourhoods and for smaller budget businesses, compliance will be patchy at best. "It feels like we're being squeezed from all sides," says Mohan Lal, a third-generation dhaba owner in Old Delhi, "Rents are up, ingredient costs are mental, and now this. The government says it's for the environment, but who's thinking about our environment, our livelihoods?"

Mushtaq weighs in one last time before going back to putting naans inside the tandoor, “They named naan as the best bread, many came to even question me and praise me. But how will I make the tasty naans they want on an electric stove?”

The DPCC has announced a three-month grace period with subsidised conversion loans of up to Rs. 50000 at 4% interest, aimed at easing the financial burden. But many operators remain sceptical about whether this support will materialise or prove sufficient.

As Delhi grapples with its worst air quality crisis in years, the tandoor ban symbolises a broader dilemma: how to balance cultural heritage and small-business survival with the desperate need for cleaner air. The clay ovens that have fed millions and defined Delhi's culinary identity for generations now stand at a crossroads, adapting, evolving, or potentially disappearing altogether.