Uppu Evokes South-Indian Home Culture in the By Lanes of Bandra

If one visits Bandra in September with the monsoon almost waving a goodbye for the year - a sigh for Mumbaikars - it looks nothing but drenched with not just rains but also cultural confluences. With the Bandra fair boasting multiple faiths and region-specific highlights together, the rest of this western suburb dazzles with both old and new outlets waiting to strategise their offering by aligning with the festivities knocking on the door. 

When we visited the South-Indian Uppu, immediately after Onam, however, we were told that even being South-Indian, they "did not do much" for Onam. The reason is simple. Since its opening, it has already garnered enough attention all over social media in the last month, which the manager, Prasad, considers enough to have their seats full. "Celebrities like Dia Mirza and Lara Dutta have visited us, and many keep visiting regularly,'' he says. 

On a rainy afternoon in the quietness of Nityanand Nagar in Reclamation, Uppu does feel at home - a South Indian one, precisely. White from the outside and the wooden settings inside pave the way for the same. The walls are adorned with some of the old photographs that take a nostalgic ride to the old Bombay, all while one sits and sips their filter coffee, as we did. 

Owned by the Ahuja family, whose Karjat's Oleander Farms is another popular spot near Mumbai, Uppu is an ode to the mix of South India in the heart of Mumbai. The word 'Uppu', which translates as ‘salt’ in a number of South Indian languages, is perhaps the best way to describe it. From Manglorean roast dishes to Kerala's coconut-laced gravies, Andhra’s fiery spice to Tamil Nadu's Chettinad speciality, it is a one-stop for all. 

Prasad suggests the Mysore Masala Dosa and Tuppa Podi Idli while talking about the usual crowd that falls during the weekend. "It is a huge rush and people usually have to queue up," he says as we savour the above two items. Uppu's Ghee roast items are our topmost selections, a conclusion we came to after a bite of Paneer Ghee roast. However, for the ones with spicy preferences, even Tamrind rice (Puliyogare) can be an option.

While the consultant chef here, Naveen, comes with 35 years of experience in South Indian cuisine, the assistant chefs from Madras bring their individual expertise. However, if not for the entire experience of the homely settings with the South Indian veg food that Uppu offers, one might find other such outlets better, if only concentrating on the food.

Interestingly, however, Lassi, which is not their speciality, is a winner in the beverages section where you feel your North-Indian craving satisfies within this South-Indian arena. Such is the unifying thread in the food culture of India - one is more likely to think!