Toonika Guha Imagines a Modern Bengali Feast With Her Innovative Pujo Thali

The aroma of mustard oil heating in a well-seasoned kadhai fills the kitchen as Toonika prepares for what she calls a ‘modern Bengali Feast.’ At Toontooni's Table, her modern Bengali supper club operating between Gurgaon and Delhi, she's challenging every preconceived notion about what makes Bengali food "authentic."

"I don't think there was ever a time in human history when recipes weren't changed or interpreted differently by different people," Toonika Guha explains whilst keeping her dhoka cakes on a sauce base at her recent Pre-Pujo supper club co-hosted by Chef Sridula Chatterjee, head chef at Mezze Mambo in Delhi. This philosophy drives everything she does—from transforming dhokha into elegant cake-like presentations to serving traditional posto as contemporary canapés.

Her journey to this culinary rebellion wasn't conventional. Born and raised in Kolkata, Toonika spent over a decade navigating the creative industries across Delhi, London, and Gurgaon, working in publishing, tech, and fintech. Despite childhood dreams of studying at Le Cordon Bleu in Australia, life had other plans. But in February 2025, she finally pursued her food dream, launching Toontooni's Table as her "small endeavour to take Bengali cuisine to the world."

Toonika curates for Local Samosa, a six-dish Bengali feast that she would prepare if she hosted a pujo gathering at her house.

Dhokkar Dalna: When Tradition Becomes Art

Serves 2-3

The first dish in Toonika's rebellious feast tells a powerful story. Dhokha, originally created by Bengali widows who weren't allowed to eat meat, represents centuries of culinary ingenuity. At Toontooni's Table, this humble "mock meat" gets a dramatic makeover.

"We fry the dhokha pieces separately and serve it on a bed of gravy," Toonika explains. "The dhokha is topped with a cream cheese mixture made with cheese and lasan ki chutney and served in a way that looks like a 'cake'."

Ingredients:

• Split Bengal gram (chana dal): 150g, soaked overnight
• Yellow split peas (matar dal): 75g, soaked overnight
• Green chillies: 2, chopped
• Ginger paste: 1 tablespoon
• Whole ginger: 5g
• Cumin powder: ½ teaspoon
• Coriander powder: ½ teaspoon
• Turmeric powder: ½ teaspoon
• Kashmiri red chilli powder: ½ teaspoon
• Sugar: ½ teaspoon
• Salt: ½ teaspoon
• Bay leaf: 1
• Kalonji: ½ teaspoon
• Onion paste: 2 mid-sized onions
• Tomato paste: 2 mid-sized tomatoes
• Mustard oil: 100ml

Method: Grind the soaked dals with ginger, green chillies, salt, and a splash of water into a thick paste. Heat a tablespoon of Gramiyaa cold-pressed mustard oil, add kalonji (Toonika suggests Sunrise kalonji for this), then the dal paste. Cook until done, pour onto a flat surface, and cool. Cut into diamond shapes and deep-fry. For the gravy, fry onion paste in oil with spices until translucent, add tomato paste, cook until oil separates, then add water and sugar. Toonika suggests sourcing veggies like tomatoes and onions from The Farm Collective. Drop the fried dhokha pieces into the gravy and serve.

For Toonika, Durga Puja represents more than religious observance—it's her favourite festival of the year. "It's a time for reunions, adda and lots of great food," she reflects. Having grown up in Kolkata, she understands the festival's deeper meaning: "Ma Durga comes to visit her paternal home on earth during the 10 days of Pujo, and much like how our family members try to make our favourite foods when we visit home, Bengalis all over the world rejoice and indulge in some tasty treats."

Peyaz Posto: History on Rice Paper

Serves 2-3

Posto carries profound historical significance in Bengali cuisine. Born from necessity when poor farmers were forced to cultivate opium, this by-product has evolved into a celebrated and expensive ingredient. Toonika's interpretation transforms this rice accompaniment into something entirely unexpected.

"Typically, we eat it with rice, but at Toontooni's Table, we serve it on a fried rice paper as a canapé to be enjoyed as a snack," she explains, demonstrating how traditional boundaries can be beautifully broken.

Ingredients:

• Red onions: 2 medium
• Poppy seeds (posto/khus khus): 25g
• Mustard oil: 2 tablespoons
• Panch phoran: ½ teaspoon
• Turmeric powder: ¼ teaspoon
• Salt: to taste

Method: Thinly slice and rinse the onions well. Grind poppy seeds with water into a smooth paste. Heat Gramiyaa's mustard oil, add panch phoran until it sputters. Toonika recommends CookMe panch phoran as one she uses herself. Then add onions and cook until lightly caramelised. Stir in the poppy seed paste, turmeric, salt, and a splash of water. Cook until onions are soft and everything comes together.

The question of authenticity is one Toonika addresses head-on. "Even now, a macher jhol in my house will not taste the same as that in my neighbour's house, even if we both come from Kolkata," she argues. "Food is constantly changing and evolving, so therefore, there is no 'authentic' food. Everything is a product of changing times, availability of resources, trade, commerce, trends, and even deprivation."

This philosophy extends to her mission of elevating Bengali cuisine globally. "It is not seen as a 'sexy' cuisine and is often overlooked on the global stage. I'd like to change that."

Chingri Bhorta: The Renaissance of Rustic

Serves 2-3

Bhortas—mashed dishes—have experienced a remarkable renaissance in recent years. Once dismissed as unglamorous, they're now celebrated for their rustic authenticity. Toonika's prawn version showcases this evolution perfectly.

"Growing up, bhortas weren't seen as trendy or 'sexy' dishes, but recently have gained a lot of popularity," she notes. "This is my way of showcasing one such dish on my thali."

Ingredients:

• Prawns (medium-sized, shelled and deveined): 300g
• Onions (small, finely chopped): 1 small (50g)
• Garlic cloves (finely chopped): 6 cloves (15g)
• Green chillies (finely chopped): 4-5
• Mustard oil: 3 tablespoons
• Turmeric powder: ¼ teaspoon
• Salt: 1 teaspoon
• Fresh coriander leaves: 1 tablespoon (optional)

Method: Clean and season prawns with turmeric and salt. Fry in 1.5 tablespoons mustard oil until pink and cooked. Remove and set aside. In the same pan, fry garlic, green chillies, and onions until golden. Coarsely mash the prawns, combine with the fried mixture, adjust seasoning, and drizzle with raw mustard oil before serving. Toonika strongly advocates for Cambay Tiger prawns for the best flavour.

Fish Fry: Pujo's Golden Standard

Serves 2-3

Some traditions don't need revolution—they need reverence. Fish fry represents this perfectly at Durga Puja celebrations, appearing everywhere from roadside stalls to upmarket restaurants. Toonika's approach respects this beloved classic whilst ensuring technical perfection.

Ingredients:

• Fillet fish (Bhetki preferred, Basa as substitute): 350-400g
• Coriander leaves: 20g
• Mint leaves: 10g
• Parsley leaves: 10g
• Lime juice: 1½ tablespoons
• Salt: 1 teaspoon (plus extra for coating)
• Black pepper: ½ teaspoon, freshly ground
• Eggs: 2, beaten
• Breadcrumbs: 80-100g
• Mustard oil for deep frying: 250-300ml

Method: Create a marinade paste from coriander, mint, parsley, lime juice, and salt. Marinate fish for at least one hour, preferably overnight. Dip each piece in beaten egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and repeat for a double coating. Deep-fry in mustard oil until golden. Serve with kasundi and chopped onions.

The sourcing philosophy at Toontooni's Table reflects Toonika's broader commitment to quality over convenience. From Gramiyaa's cold-pressed mustard oil to Cambay Tiger's fresh seafood, every ingredient is carefully selected. "We strive to tell stories through food," she explains, and these stories begin with respecting the ingredients themselves.

Basanti Pulao: Liquid Gold on the Plate

Serves 2-3

The golden hue of Basanti Pulao makes it the visual centrepiece of any Pujo thali. This isn't just rice—it's edible sunshine, carefully crafted to balance sweet and savoury elements in perfect harmony.

Ingredients:

• Gobindobhog rice: 200g
• Ghee: 2 tablespoons
• Cooking oil: 2 tablespoons
• Bay leaf: 1
• Green cardamom pods: 4
• Cloves: 5
• Cinnamon stick: 1 inch
• Cashews: 2 tablespoons
• Raisins: 2 tablespoons
• Turmeric powder: ½ teaspoon
• Ginger paste: ¾ teaspoon
• Garam masala powder: ½ teaspoon
• Sugar: 2 tablespoons
• Salt: ¾ teaspoon
• Water: 400ml
• Green chillies: 3-4, slit

Method: Wash and soak rice for 30 minutes, then drain. Mix with ginger paste, turmeric, garam masala, ghee, and salt. Heat oil and ghee in a pan, add whole spices, cashews, and raisins. Ghee needs to be Jharna ghee as per Toonika. Roast until cashews turn golden. Add rice and sauté gently for 2 minutes. Pour in water and sugar, cover, and cook on low flame for 10 minutes. Add green chillies, cover, and cook for another 10 minutes. Rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Shukto: Bengali Bitter-Sweet Symphony

Serves 2-3

Bengalis might be one of the few communities that willingly embrace bitter flavours as part of their regular meals. Shukto represents this unique palate perfectly, transforming potentially challenging vegetables into something deliciously harmonious.

"Every biye bari or nemontonni bari menu will always have this dish," Toonika notes. "It's also a great way of getting veggies into your diet."

Ingredients:

• Drumsticks (Shojne data): 160g, cut into 5cm sections
• Sweet potato (Mishti alu): 120g, cut in wedges
• Flat beans (Sheem): 100g, trimmed and halved
• Brinjal (Begun): 100g, cut into pieces
• Bitter gourd (Korola): 50g, sliced
• Potato: 100g, cut as sweet potato
• Raw banana (Kachkola): 150g
• Raw papaya (Kacha pepe): 150g
• Dried lentil dumplings (Dal'er bori): 10 pieces, fried golden
• Mustard oil: 60g
• Milk: 100g
• Home Kouzina Shukto Masala: 1 tablespoon
• Ghee: 10g

Method: Fry all vegetables and bori in mustard oil until cooked. Mix shukto masala with milk and pour into the kadhai. Toonika recommends Home Kouzina’s Shukto Masala for this. Add water, cover, and cook until done. Serve with hot ghee rice.

Ghee Bhaat: The Perfect Canvas

Serves 2-3

Sometimes the most important player on the team isn't the star—it's the one who makes everyone else shine. Ghee bhaat serves this crucial role, providing the perfect canvas for soaking up the complex flavours of posto, shukto, and bhorta.

"While basanti pulao is the carbs star of a Pujo thali, one must always have some ghee bhaat at hand," Toonika explains. "Many Pujo special thalis will give you a bit of both of these rice dishes."

Ingredients:

• Gobindobhog rice: 200g
• Jharna Ghee: 2-3 tablespoons
• Salt: to taste

Method: Wash and boil the rice, allowing it to absorb the starch. Add ghee and salt, mix thoroughly, and serve hot. Best enjoyed with dishes like posto, shukto, and bhorta.

The Future of Bengali Cuisine

Through Toontooni's Table, Toonika isn't just preserving Bengali culinary traditions—she's actively evolving them. Her approach demonstrates how respect for heritage and innovation can coexist beautifully, creating something that honours the past whilst embracing contemporary possibilities.

This six-dish Durga Puja thali represents more than a collection of recipes; it's a manifesto for the future of Bengali cuisine. One that recognises food as a living, breathing cultural expression that grows stronger through thoughtful evolution rather than rigid preservation.

As Durga Puja approaches, home cooks can recreate these dishes, participating in a celebration that transcends geography and connects us all to the rich, ever-evolving tapestry of Bengali culinary heritage.