How Chef Richa Johri Aims at Redefining Vegetarian Fine Dining at UNICO

In a country where nearly half the population follows a vegetarian diet, it is almost ironic that fine dining has remained so stubbornly meat-driven. Tasting menus often relegate vegetables to the sidelines, sides, salads, or fillers, rather than the stars of the plate. Enter Gurugram-based UNICO, a restaurant that has taken a bold, unapologetic stance: to prove that vegetarian food can be every bit as indulgent, refined, and desirable as its meat-laden counterparts.

At the helm is Chef Richa Johri often described as a disruptor, though she’s quick to challenge that definition. “For me, disruption isn’t about being loud—it’s about being honest,” she says. “We challenge the stereotype that vegetarian food is secondary or limited. We treat every vegetable as one would the most expensive cut of Wagyu or Almas Caviar, pushing techniques, textures, and flavours to create something indulgent yet conscious. Disruption means questioning norms and quietly rewriting them on the plate.”

A Personal Leap into the Plant-Forward World

What makes this commitment even more striking is the chef’s own culinary past, which was once steeped in bold, meat-driven menus. Shifting to a fully plant-forward approach was not the easy, predictable choice. It was a challenge she set for himself.

“My culinary journey has always been bold and experimental, but moving to a plant-forward, vegetarian menu was the opposite of my usual preferences. I questioned whether this new direction could be as intriguing and engaging as my previous work with meat-driven menus—but the outcome has far exceeded my expectations,” Johri explains.

For her, indulgence is no longer synonymous with excess. Instead, it’s about “depth, surprise, and satisfaction. Vegetarian food offers an incredible canvas to play with—layers of spice, smoke, fermentation, and technique. Guests often tell me they forget they’re eating vegetarian food because the food feels complete and luxurious.”

Sustainability You Can Taste

UNICO’s focuses on sustainability, not as a marketing gimmick but as a lived practice. From hydroponic farming and in-house cold-pressed oils to a zero-waste ethos, every choice is deliberate and deeply integrated into the dining experience.

“Sustainability can’t just be a buzzword; it has to be delicious,” the chef insists. “At UNICO, the greens in your salad were likely harvested that morning, the oil on your ravioli was cold-pressed in our kitchen, and the stem from that vegetable might become tomorrow’s broth. Guests genuinely taste that freshness and integrity. I believe this is the future because food must respect its source if it wants to thrive."

UNICO also celebrates underrepresented cuisines and neglected ingredients. The chef is particularly excited about the rediscovery of millets and ancient grains, which are finding a fresh, elevated place on her menu.

“Right now, I’m fascinated by millets and ancient grains. Our Raagi Crêpes with three beans and gruyere surprise people every time—it’s earthy, nutty, and deeply satisfying. Diners are often amazed that something so humble can feel so refined,” she says, adding that more local vegetables will soon make their way into the menu, continuing the cycle of surprise and delight.

Reshaping Fine Dining for a Vegetarian Nation

In her view, India should have been at the forefront of vegetarian fine dining long ago, given its vast vegetarian population. Yet the reality is quite different. “It’s unfortunate that a country with a 45% vegetarian population still sees vegetarian fine dining as an exception,” she points out.

But her ambitions extend far beyond the restaurant’s walls. Writing, researching, and reviving forgotten regional cuisines are equally central to her vision. “I see food as storytelling. Restaurants are just one chapter, but writing and research allow us to preserve voices and traditions that might otherwise disappear.”