Ammas and the Spirit of Ramzan: The Women Behind the Hyderabad's Iftar Stalls

As the sun sets over Hyderabad during Ramzan, the city’s streets come alive with the aroma of haleem, samosas, dahi vadas, and sheer kurma. While the bustling markets of Charminar, Tolichowki, and Mehdipatnam are packed with food lovers, there’s an equally heartwarming story unfolding in smaller corners of the city—where Ammas (mothers and elderly women) set up their humble iftar stalls, serving home-cooked delicacies with love and devotion.

For many of these women, preparing iftar meals is more than just a business—it’s a way of life, a tradition passed down through generations. In neighbourhoods like Chanchalguda, Malakpet, and Nampally, you’ll find small stalls run by Ammas who wake up before dawn to soak lentils, marinate meats, and grind spices, ensuring that their dishes are packed with the authentic flavours of Hyderabadi Ramzan.

The Taste of Home in Every Bite

While grand restaurants serve their versions of haleem and biryani, it’s the Amma-run stalls that carry the taste of home. Some women specialise in handmade pathar ka gosht, fluffy keema parathas, and melt-in-the-mouth luqmis, while others sell fresh malpua, phirni, and rooh afza sharbat. Unlike commercial kitchens, most of the food here is slow-cooked on wood-fired stoves or in heavy copper pots, giving each dish its depth of flavour.

Many of these Ammas work right from their homes, setting up stalls outside or near busy mosques. Customers—both regulars and passersby—often stop for a plate of haleem or a bowl of sheer kurma, engaging in conversations that go beyond just food. For them, these stalls are not just about breaking their fast but also about sharing stories, prayers, and moments of togetherness.

A Source of Livelihood and Independence

For some women, these stalls are not just a seasonal passion but a crucial means of livelihood. Many of them are widows or single mothers who depend on their cooking skills to support their families. Ramzan brings them an opportunity to earn a steady income, with customers valuing their dedication to homemade, hygienic, and affordable iftar meals.

Several Ammas have built loyal customer bases, with people returning year after year to buy their signature dishes. Some even take advance orders, preparing iftar thalis for families who want home-style cooking without the hassle of making it themselves.

A Tradition That Lives On

Even as Hyderabad modernises, the Amma-run iftar stalls remain a cherished part of the city’s Ramzan culture. These women are not just feeding people; they are preserving age-old recipes, fostering community connections, and keeping the essence of traditional cooking alive.

So, the next time you find yourself in Hyderabad during Ramzan, skip the crowded eateries and take a walk through the city’s quieter lanes—you might just find an Amma, standing behind a steaming pot of haleem, waiting to serve you a plate of warmth, history, and home-cooked love.