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Cafe Madras: A Food Legacy Since Pre-Independence Serving Authentic South Indian Cuisine

Café Madras in Mumbai’s Matunga has served authentic South Indian cuisine since 1940. Known for its rich history and communal dining, it remains a beloved institution, celebrating its 80-year legacy this Independence Day.

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Srushti Pathak
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Cafe Madras

Food is a vital part of culture, connecting us to the past and embodying the values of different eras. Many Indian eateries, like Café Madras in Matunga, are enduring symbols of our rich heritage. In Mumbai, it’s common to share tables with strangers and see servers rushing in crowded spaces. These local gems remain popular for their authentic meals and intriguing stories. Café Madras, with its 80+ years of history, is a standout example, and this Independence Day, Local Samosa is celebrating its legacy. We visited this iconic cafe recently and it continues to stay true to its fame.

Taste of Tradition Since 1940

Cafe Madras
Image Courtesy: Cafe Madras

Café Madras has been a cornerstone of authentic South Indian cuisine since 1940. Established by Gopal Purshottam Kamath, the café was initially a modest eatery with a mission to deliver genuine South Indian flavours to Mumbai. Over the years, it has been managed by his sons, Jagdish Kamath and Suresh Kamath, and later by their own sons, Devavrat Kamath and Jaiprakash Kamath.

In 1968, Gopal and Jagdish Kamath entered a partnership under the name Café Madras. A decade later, they formed GP Kamath & Co., which took over the café and the Gopalkrishna Hindu Hotel. The ownership structure has seen periodic changes, with the most recent reconstitution occurring in 2011. By 2012, the café boasted an annual turnover of nearly INR 1 crore. Today, Café Madras continues to be cherished by locals and visitors for its authentic and traditional South Indian dishes, reflecting a rich legacy that has endured for decades.

A Culinary Journey in the Heart of Matunga

Cafe Madras

Café Madras is situated in Matunga, a neighbourhood renowned for its rich culinary heritage. Surrounded by other historic eateries, Café Madras stands out for its unwavering commitment to South Indian cuisine. The café's classic charm and bustling atmosphere reflect the vibrant spirit of the area, making it a must-visit for anyone seeking a genuine taste of tradition. From the moment you step inside Café Madras, the sensory experience is unforgettable. The aroma of freshly ground spices and the sizzle of dosa batter create a lively ambience. The menu boasts a range of beloved dishes, including crispy dosas, fluffy idlis, and rich sambars, all prepared with the same dedication and authenticity that have defined the café since its inception. The place is always buzzing with the staff scurrying to serve the customers and the owner standing at the counter while munching down fresh food.

Dining Experience

Cafe Madras

The Local Samosa team had to try the Idli Butter Podi (or Idli Ghee Podi if you’re truly familiar with the cuisine). The fresh, soft idlis were covered with their special Mulgi Podi, and accompanied by chutney, sambar, and more chutney on the side. We also had to have Filter Coffee, as no visit to a restaurant serving South Indian cuisine is complete without it. And what they say is true: that taste can’t be replicated at home! Must-try in-house specialties include Neer Masala with Stew, Idli Butter Podi, Ragi Masala Dosa, Pesarattu Dosa, Bisibele Bhath, Malgapudi, and Rasam Idli.

Expanding the Legacy

Cafe Madras

In 2016, Café Madras expanded its reach by opening its first retail store, offering a variety of South Indian snacks and culinary essentials. The store features sixty different items, including pickles, banana chips, and chakli. Popular products like coffee powder and masalas are also available, allowing customers to bring a taste of Café Madras home.

The Mulgi Podi is a must-buy when you visit Cafe Madras for you will be craving it ever since you taste it. Their Sambar Masala is another highly recommended product.

A Shared Experience

Cafe Madras

Dining at Café Madras often means sharing a table with fellow food enthusiasts, fostering a sense of community. The café’s compact space, frequently bustling with activity, adds to its charm. The efficient and friendly staff navigates the tight quarters with skill, ensuring that every guest enjoys a memorable meal. 

The Local Samosa team got to share a table with an office-going man, getting his breakfast before heading to work. On the next table were a family of three elderly parents and their son who had come for a special breakfast meal.

And the Legacy Lives on

Cafe Madras

Café Madras is more than just a restaurant; it’s a living testament to South Indian culinary traditions. This Independence Day, Local Samosa is highlighting Café Madras and its remarkable 84-year journey, celebrating its role in preserving and celebrating South Indian cuisine in Mumbai. Café Madras remains a beloved institution due to its commitment to authenticity and its warm, inviting atmosphere. In a rapidly changing world, this cherished café continues to offer a genuine taste of South India, making every visit a delightful journey through history and flavour.

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