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Chor Bazaar — the name alone conjures a certain thrill. For over a century, this iconic Mumbai market has fascinated collectors, curious tourists, and everyday buyers who swear by its bargains. It has long been a place where a broken gramophone finds a new home, a vintage Bollywood poster stirs nostalgia, and spare parts for almost anything can be found if you know whom to ask. But soon, this legendary bazaar is set to change its form as part of a larger redevelopment project that will move many of its traders into a new building. The question is: can the spirit of Chor Bazaar survive outside its crowded lanes?
A History Steeped in Noise
Few markets in India carry such a colourful past. The story goes that the market was once called Shor Bazaar, or the “noisy market”, a fitting name for the bustling scene of shopkeepers haggling and hawkers calling out to customers. Somewhere along the way, the British tongue mispronounced it as Chor Bazaar. Add to that tales of stolen goods occasionally making their way here, and the label of the “Thieves’ Market” stuck.
Despite the name, this Mumbai market has always been more about recycling. During colonial times, it became a hub for second-hand goods. Furniture from old colonial bungalows, spare parts from imported cars, typewriters, radios, and clocks that had outlived their first owners, all found new buyers here. The market grew organically, sprawling across lanes off Grant Road, with Mutton Street emerging as its beating heart.
For generations, it became the city’s unofficial museum of everyday objects. Shopfronts overflowed with curiosities — brass lamps, wooden chests, chandeliers missing a crystal or two, and film memorabilia that captured the golden age of Bollywood. In a city constantly reinventing itself, Chor Bazaar became a place where the past lingered in tangible form.
The Bazaar’s Unique Character
"What makes this bazaar special isn’t just its wares but its atmosphere. One might set out to find a spare car part and come back with a carved mirror frame, or walk in search of a poster and stumble upon an entire box of vinyl records. Every shop is a treasure chest waiting to be opened", says Hussain, who is now the fourth generation handling the Oriental Arts shop in the bazar.
The market’s energy comes from its chaos. The lanes are narrow, the goods stacked high, and the bargaining loud. Shopkeepers are storytellers as much as sellers, spinning tales about where a particular artefact came from. Tourists with cameras, locals looking for a bargain, and antique hunters rub shoulders in this vibrant bazaar.
Why the Relocation?
The neighbourhood that houses Chor Bazaar falls under a massive urban redevelopment plan. The goal is to replace ageing, often unsafe buildings with modern high-rises that include residential towers, commercial complexes, and organised shopping spaces. Chor Bazaar’s traders are a part of this scheme, and several dozen shops from one lane have already been dismantled. They will now be accommodated in a newly built commercial arcade within the redevelopment’s towers.
On paper, the advantages are clear. "The new shopping arena will have better infrastructure: proper sanitation, elevators, parking, and fire safety measures — facilities the old bazaar sorely lacked", says Mansuri M. Shafi Ali, who runs his own coin collection store in the market. Traders will receive legal shop units, ensuring tenure and security that street-front vendors often struggle with. For the city, it is a chance to integrate a historic marketplace into a modern plan, giving it a safer home.
Traders’ Hopes and Fears
Yet, not all traders are celebrating. For many, Chor Bazaar is more than a commercial space — it is an identity passed down across generations. They worry that moving into a sterile shopping arcade will rob the market of its character. The clutter, the haphazard displays, the thrill of a chance find — these are not elements easily recreated under the uniformity of glass-front shops and tiled floors.
There are financial concerns, too. "Many small vendors operate on thin margins and fear that rents in the new building may be higher than they can afford", opines the owner of the shop Vintage Shop Collection. Some worry about losing footfall, as the bazaar’s charm has always been its open lanes, easily accessible to passersby. A shift indoors might deter casual visitors who enjoy the outdoor bazaar experience. Tourists, too, might find themselves disappointed if Chor Bazaar turns into just another shopping arcade without the messy, magical feel of its lanes.
Balancing Renewal with Heritage
The challenge, then, is to strike a balance. Redevelopment can provide safety, hygiene, and long-term security, but it must also preserve the essence of what makes this market unique. There are ways this can be done. For instance, stall designs could allow traders to display goods in their typical overflowing style rather than confining them to neat shelves. Priority must be given to long-standing vendors in prime locations so that familiar names continue to anchor the bazaar. A heritage interpretation corner, perhaps a small gallery inside the complex, could document the bazaar’s 150-year history, showcasing old photographs and stories to keep its memory alive.
Equally important are affordable lease terms. If rents rise too high, the very traders who built Chor Bazaar’s identity risk being priced out, leaving only sanitised showrooms in their place. Supporting these traders during the transition, through temporary rent relief or marketing efforts to attract footfall, would go a long way in keeping the bazaar alive.
The Future of Chor Bazaar
As redevelopment progresses, visitors today find a market in flux. Some lanes remain bustling, while others stand partially demolished. Traders may temporarily move to side streets or smaller shops, and the sense of uncertainty hangs in the air.
When the relocation is complete, the heritage market will undoubtedly look different. It will be cleaner, safer, and more organised. But whether it retains its charm depends on how sensitively the transition is managed. If traders are given space to recreate their cluttered shopfronts, if affordability is ensured, and if the spirit of chance discovery is allowed to thrive, the market may well carry its magic into the new building.
The bazaar’s story is, after all, one of adaptation. From colonial times to modern Mumbai, it has constantly reinvented itself while holding on to its identity. The relocation is just another chapter in that story. The market of stories, memories, and oddities may change its form, but with the right care, its spirit can endure.