The Girgaum Kitchen: A Quiet Revival of Girgaon’s Food, Memory, and Cultural Charm

In the narrow, lived-in lanes of Girgaon, where old buildings stand next to redevelopment sites, and memories linger in every corner, a quiet effort is being made to preserve something deeper than just food. The Girgaum Kitchen, located in the heart of this historic neighbourhood in Mumbai, is not just a restaurant. It is a cultural space that brings together history, community, and traditional Maharashtrian cuisine.

Founded by Omkar Narvekar, who works as an Ambassador at Khaki Tours, the restaurant is built on one clear idea — to bring back the charm of Girgaon through food, memory, and shared cultural experiences.

A Neighbourhood With Deep Roots

Girgaon has always been more than just a locality. It has been a cultural centre known for its chawls, festivals, culture, and strong neighbourhood bonds. Over the years, it has shaped the social and cultural identity of South Mumbai.

However, the area is changing rapidly. Old chawls are being replaced by towers, and traditional homes are slowly disappearing. With redevelopment, not just buildings but also lifestyles, food traditions, and everyday community interactions are fading.

Omkar addresses this shift very clearly. “As you can see, Girgaon is changing drastically. In the next five years, you won’t see this Girgaon. The visual representation of Girgaon will be totally different from what it is today,” he says. This awareness played a major role in selecting the restaurant's location.

A Space With a 95-Year-Old Legacy

"The place that now houses The Girgaum Kitchen has a long history of its own. When the structure was built, the shop was taken on lease by Bharat’s maternal grandfather and began as a tea stall in the 1930s", says Narvekar. The place belongs to the founder of Khaki Tours, Bharat Gothoskar, with whom Narvekar has been working for several years. 

Gradually, it evolved into a cold drink house at a time when commercial refrigeration was rare. People would come here for cold beverages, snacks, and to meet guests or have conversations, similar to how cafés operate today.

“This was what today’s coffee shop was back then. People would come here to work, to meet someone, or even if they had guests at home,” Omkar explains. The place operated as Prakash Cold Drink House until July 2025, before formally becoming a full-fledged restaurant on August 9 2025.

From Heritage Walks to Hospitality

The journey of The Girgaum Kitchen began during the lockdown when Omkar started watching heritage content and later joined Khaki Tours. His exposure to Mumbai’s history shaped the way he approached the restaurant concept.

“When I told Bharat that I had something in mind and I wanted to open a restaurant, he introduced me to this place in Girgaon and asked if it would work for me,” he recalls. After multiple visits, local observations, and research, Girgaon was finalised as the location. Along with partner Hiren Welling and Bharat, the team spent nearly six months researching cuisine, concept, and cultural direction before the restaurant took shape.

Reviving Lost Maharashtrian Recipes

One of the strongest pillars of The Girgaum Kitchen is its focus on traditional Maharashtrian dishes that are rarely seen in commercial restaurants today. The idea was not just to serve food but to bring back recipes that once existed in Girgaon households.

“We wanted to bring some recipes that were made in the kitchens of Girgaon back then,” Omkar says. The menu includes dishes like Sukrunde, Dadpe Poha, and Tikat Mithacha Sanza — items that are still made in homes but often do not reach restaurant menus. For many people, poha only meant kanda poha or batata poha. The Girgaum Kitchen introduced them to Dadpe Poha, and now many people come regularly just for that,” he shares.

The emotional response from visitors has been a strong validation of the concept. “I have had senior citizens come here and tell me that the Sukrunde took them back to their childhood. Some people say it reminded them of their mother’s cooking,” he adds.

While the focus remains on authenticity, the restaurant also carefully experiments to appeal to new audiences. Items like Khichiya Papad Chaat bring a slight modern twist while staying rooted in traditional flavours. We want to introduce people to authentic dishes but also give them some kind of twist, so it appeals to a newer audience,” Omkar explains. The team follows a slow and structured approach to menu expansion. They started with just six dishes and only added more once consistency and taste were perfected.

A Homely Ambience With Cultural Detail

The ambience of The Girgaum Kitchen is simple, warm, and deeply nostalgic. The interiors use earthen tones and feature objects that are over 100 years old, many of which belong to Bharat’s family. These include vintage vessels, an old icebox, a charcoal iron, and even a receipt written in Modi script from the pre-independence era.

There is also a legacy wall featuring illustrations of old Girgaon — from chawls and milk delivery cycles to kerosene stoves and double-decker buses near Chowpatty. A preserved devghar from the 1960s–70s has been kept untouched due to its sentimental value.

“The idea was not to make it a typical restaurant where you just come, eat, and go. We wanted people to have an experience,” Omkar says. Books related to Bombay, cooking, and Girgaon are placed around the space so visitors can sit, read, and spend time leisurely.

Omkar’s association with heritage walks strongly influences how the restaurant engages with guests. The experience often goes beyond dining and becomes interactive. “Once people walk in, it is like stepping into a part of history itself because the building is 95 years old and the walls have things that are 100 years old,” he explains.

Guests often begin conversations after noticing the artefacts, paintings, and cultural references inside the restaurant. If someone expresses interest in heritage, they are provided with a brief explanation of the installations and the space's history while seated.

Preserving Culture Before It Disappears

For Omkar, the mission of The Girgaum Kitchen goes beyond food. It is about preserving culture before redevelopment changes the social fabric of Girgaon completely. “When Girgaon transforms, everything that comes along with it also transforms. You wouldn’t just lose chawls, you would lose chawl culture, food habits, and traditions,” he says. He believes that traditional recipes are disappearing just like architectural heritage and need conscious preservation.

He also makes a broader observation about regional cuisine. “My wife is Tamilian, and she can find her food anywhere in India. But as a Maharashtrian, I rarely find authentic Maharashtrian food outside Maharashtra,” he notes. In a neighbourhood where redevelopment is slowly changing the skyline and lifestyle, this small restaurant is attempting something meaningful — preserving memory through food and space.