The History of Chikankari Weaved In Delicate Patterns

Did you know Chikankari is believed to have been introduced by Nur Jehan, Mughal emperor Jahangir's wife in India? Here are a few other interesting facts about Chikankari that might astonish you. 

Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh, is renowned for its rich cultural heritage, encompassing not only its delicious culinary delights and Nawabi architecture but also its intricate and timeless fabric embroidery known as Chikankari. This exquisite art form involves hand embroidery, typically done with white thread on fabric, creating delicate and ornate patterns. Stay with us to explore 'Chikankari and its significance'.

The History Untold

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The word 'chickan' is said to be derived from the Persian word 'chakin', meaning 'embroidery on delicate fabric, typically shadow work'. Others believe it originated from the East Bengal language, where 'Chikan' signifies 'fine'.

The roots of the exquisite art form, Chikankari, can be traced back to the Mughal era, though some believe it originated during the Mauryan Empire in the 3rd century BC. However, it reached its zenith and gained popularity during the reign of Emperor Akbar in the 16th century. Megasthenes, a Greek traveler, mentioned the use of flowered muslin by Indians. There are various versions of the origin of Chikankari embroidery in India.

According to one tale, a traveler passing through a village in Lucknow stopped and requested water from a poor farmer. In gratitude for the farmer's hospitality, the traveler imparted the art of Chikankari, ensuring the farmer would never go hungry in life. Lucknow is renowned as the epicenter of Chikankari work. Another explanation credits the introduction of Chikankari embroidery in India to Emperor Jahangir's queen, Nur Jahan.

The Art Technique

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Over the centuries, Chikankari has assimilated various influences, including Persian, Mughal, and Awadhi, resulting in a unique and distinctive art form. Indian Chikankari work involves several processes, such as cutting, stitching, printing, embroidery, washing, and finishing. Cutting and stitching are typically performed by the same artisan. Subsequently, printing is carried out using wooden blocks dipped in color. Following this, embroidery is usually executed by women. The final step in Chikankari embroidery involves washing and finishing, which can take 10 to 12 days and includes bleaching, acid treatment, stiffening, and ironing.

Traditionally, Chikankari embroidery utilizes white cotton or muslin fabrics, although today, experimentation with other fabrics such as silk and chiffon is common. The embroidery thread used is usually white, although subtle pastel shades have gained popularity. The allure of Chikankari lies in its delicate and intricate stitches, which include:

Taipchi: A simple running stitch used for outlining the design.

Bakhiya: A fine diagonal stitch that fills in the motif, often creating a shadow effect.

Hool: A looped stitch that forms small, decorative patterns.

Zanzeera: A chain stitch used for making outlines and floral patterns.

Rahet: A stem stitch used for outlining the veins in leaves and petals.

These delicate and refined stitches require a high level of skill and precision, making Chikankari a labor-intensive craft.

Traditional Motifs

Chikankari designs are heavily influenced by elements of nature and traditional architectural motifs. Traditional designs feature floral patterns, peacocks, mangoes, and geometric shapes meticulously stitched onto the fabric to create exquisite patterns. The artistry of Chikankari lies not only in the design but also in the placement of motifs, ensuring harmony and balance in the fabric.

Prominent Fashion Designer In The Industry of Chikankari

For 20 years, Sandeep Khosla and Abu Jani have mastered the art of Chikankari, elevating its prominence both in India and abroad. They famously dressed Judi Dench of the James Bond series in one of their majestic Chikankari creations when she received an Oscar at the 2004 Academy Awards.

In addition to them, the Self Employed Women's Association, involving Chikankari artisans, is renowned for their talent in crafting Khadi and Woolen garments, particularly for an Italian client called Camitato.

Chikankari continues to symbolize elegance and sophistication in Indian fashion. Young girls and married women proudly showcase their Chikankari outfits, and various designers and fashion houses in India and worldwide have embraced this traditional craft by adapting it with contemporary styles. Chikankari has not only retained its cultural significance but has also become a means of livelihood for numerous artisans in Lucknow and other regions where it is practiced. While Chikankari is widely associated with Lucknow and known worldwide, it exhibits regional variations across India.

Lucknow Chikankari is renowned for its intricate stitching and is commonly found on garments such as sarees, kurtas, and dupattas. In Hyderabad, the art form adopts a distinct Deccan style, while in Kolkata, it integrates with Bengali art and culture. As long as there are individuals who appreciate beauty and heritage, Chikankari will continue to flourish, preserving a piece of history one delicate stitch at a time.

It's truly delightful to witness artisans and designers work tirelessly to uphold the legacy of Chikankari and provide the world with refined fabric artwork. Gift this chic fabric to your loved ones and witness the joy on their faces.

P.S. You deserve a piece of this art too, just saying.