Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel: A 115-Year-Old Pice Hotel Where Netaji Used to Eat

You must have eaten at a famous restaurant in Kolkata, but have you ever heard of a place that once served legendary Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose? Yes, you heard it right! This place in the heart of Kolkata’s bustling College Street, nestled in the serene lanes of Bhawani Dutta Lane, Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel has witnessed over a century of history. Deeply intertwined with the freedom struggle and the home-style Bengali food this place is now 115 years old but stands still holding the heritage of pice hotel in Kolkata. But what makes this place truly special even in the modern era, you ask? Well, buckle up then and grab your plate to find out!

How Pice Hotels Introduced In Kolkata

The concept of the ‘pice hotel’ in Kolkata is deeply rooted in the socio-political landscape of colonial India. Pice hotels were affordable dining establishments that offered light, nutritious meals for a minimal price, often served on banana leaves. These eateries emerged as a result of the social and economic upheavals during British rule, with many people migrating to Kolkata in search of work. The ‘pice’ refers to the smallest coin in the British currency at the time, the equivalent of a quarter of an anna, which made these hotels the go-to places for those with limited means.

Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel, like other pice hotels, embodied the ethos of serving hearty meals to those who needed it most. It became a meeting place for the working-class, students, intellectuals, and freedom fighters alike, all united by their love for simple, wholesome Bengali food. What set this hotel apart was the personal touch of Mangobindo Panda, who ensured that no one left his hotel hungry, even during the worst of times, such as the Bengal famine of 1943. During that period, he famously cooked large amounts of khichuri (a rice and lentil dish) and distributed it to the starving masses.

The History of Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel

In 1910, an Odia migrant named Mangobindo Panda laid the foundation of what would become a historic eatery — initially called the 'Hindu Hotel'. Operating from a small space in Kolkata, this eatery was created to offer affordable and wholesome meals to the masses. But there was much more than just food being served. The hotel became a hub for intellectuals, students, and most notably, freedom fighters.

In the early days, Kolkata was alive with the energy of the independence movement. Mangobindo Panda, affectionately known as ‘Thakurmoshai’, provided a sanctuary for many, offering a warm meal for as little as one anna (1/16th of a rupee). Even when customers had no money, they were always welcome to eat at his establishment — such was the generosity that defined the spirit of the hotel.

Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose, then a student at Presidency College, was one of the prominent figures who frequented this humble hotel. During his visits, he would savour traditional Bengali dishes, including his favourite, ‘pui shaaker chochchori’ (a stir-fried leafy vegetable) and ‘machher dim er bora’ (fish egg fritters). Many of these dishes are still served today, retaining the flavours that made them legends in their own right. Netaji’s connection with this place wasn’t just about food; it was also about camaraderie and revolution. The hotel was a clandestine meeting spot where plans for India’s freedom were discussed, and its back rooms served as a safe hideaway during police raids.

In a fascinating twist of fate, the name of this eatery was changed to ‘Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel’ after India gained independence in 1947. The renaming was a tribute to the newfound freedom that the country had achieved — a fitting commemoration for an establishment that had long been a silent participant in the struggle for independence.

Traditional Bengali Delights

Today, Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel continues to serve the same traditional Bengali meals that made it famous. Its menu features a variety of local delicacies, including machher jhol (fish curry), kosha mangsho (spicy mutton curry), shorshe ilish (hilsa fish in mustard sauce), and pui shaaker chochchori (stir-fried greens). The food here is prepared using the same recipes passed down through generations, keeping the flavours and methods unchanged.

The atmosphere at the hotel is as warm and inviting as it was a century ago. When you step inside, you’re immediately transported to a bygone era, with the aroma of freshly cooked food filling the air. The menu, which changes daily depending on the catch of the day, is written on a board at the entrance. The servers, who know the menu by heart, rattle off the list with precision and warmth, inviting you to indulge in a Bengali culinary journey.

But what truly makes this place special is the connection to Kolkata’s history. Sitting here, you can almost feel the presence of the freedom fighters who once gathered to discuss the future of India. It’s a place where stories are shared, and the spirit of Kolkata’s vibrant past is alive and well.

A Taste of History

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As we continue to modernise, the culture of pice hotels is slowly fading away, and many of these historic establishments are at risk of being lost to time. Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel serves as a reminder of the rich culinary heritage that Kolkata has to offer, and the role these humble eateries played in the city’s history. For food lovers, history enthusiasts, and anyone with a passion for preserving cultural traditions, supporting heritage restaurants like this one is vital. After all, these are the places where stories of bravery, unity, and culture continue to be passed down through generations. So, the next time you find yourself in Kolkata, don’t miss the chance to enjoy a meal at Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel — where every bite is a taste of history.

Where:  8/2, Bhawani Dutta Ln, below Raja Guest House, College Square, Kolkata

When: Everyday 10:30 AM – 4:00 PM, 7:30 PM – 10:30 PM