Think MMA Is Tough? Try Traditional Mud Wrestling at Siyaram Akhara Kolkata

You may have wandered through Mullick Ghat, soaking in the chaos and colours of Asia’s largest flower market, with the iconic Howrah Bridge arching gracefully overhead and the Hooghly river flowing beside you. But did you know there’s another hidden gem in Kolkata, one that often fails to grab attention? Welcome to Siyaram Akhara Byayam Samity, Kolkata’s last surviving akhara. This isn’t your regular morning workout space. Kushti, also known as Pehlwani, is a traditional Indian wrestling style characterised by grappling and throwing techniques. It’s practised in a pit of clay or dirt, with wrestlers using their strength and skill to pin their opponent’s shoulders to the ground. Wrestling here isn’t just a sport — it’s sadhana, a way of life. 

Kushti was developed during the Mughal Empire by blending Persian Koshti Pahlevani with elements of native Indian Malla-yuddha. The words pehlwani and kushti come from the Persian terms pahlavani (heroic) and koshti (wrestling, literally “killing”), meaning “heroic wrestling”. A practitioner is known as a pehlwan (Persian for hero), while teachers are called ustad (Persian for teacher or master). Pehlwani also influenced catch wrestling, which in turn played a part in shaping folkstyle wrestling, freestyle wrestling, and even mixed martial arts (MMA). 

But don’t be fooled by the silence — there’s a storm of stories buried in the soil here. Of legendary mentors who trained the likes of Dara Singh, and Pehlwan Suraj Kant Tiwari who has won 18 gold medals in various kushti Championship Gold Medals in West Bengal wrestling championships 18 times & at National Games representing Bengal 4 times already. This place may not have headlines or hashtags, but what it does have is soul. So, what keeps this ancient tradition alive in the heart of Kolkata, against all odds? 
Let’s dive into the akhara where everyone wears the same langot, bows to the same mud, and dreams of wrestling glory.

A Legacy Written in Mud: The Heartbeat of Siyaram Akhara

Founded by Nathmal Pareek, at Burrabazar who once trained the legendary Dara Singh, later in 1961 shifted beside Chhote Lal Durga Prasad Ghat on Strand Road, and flanked by the Hooghly River and the iconic Howrah Bridge, named Siyaram Akhara Byayam Samity holds its ground like a silent sentinel of tradition. His legacy was continued by Jwala Tiwari, who joined the akhara as a child and later assumed the role of ‘Guruji’. Tiwari, originally from Gorakhpur, became a guiding light for generations of wrestlers, ensuring that the essence of Kushti was passed down with integrity. Today, his son, Suraj Kant Tiwari, a third-generation pehlwan, has carried forward a legacy rooted in dedication. He trained under his father Jwala Tiwari, from the age of six. “My identity begins and ends with Kushti,” he says with quiet pride. With 18 gold medals in state championships and four appearances at national games, he’s not just keeping the mud tradition alive — he’s turning it into a movement. Suraj has kept the akhara’s routine the same over the decades without charging a rupee. Life in the akhara isn’t for the faint-hearted.

Suraj remembers his father’s routine — waking at 2:30 am, running across Howrah Bridge, performing 2,000 dands (Hindu push-ups), fighting 20 youngsters, and ending with eight litres of milk. The training here is rigorous, and the values are stricter. “In gyms, you can get by with shortcuts, supplements, even bad habits,” Suraj says. “But kushti demands mental strength, purity, and focus.” Still today Pehlwans (Wrestlers) begin their day at 5 AM by donning the traditional langot, rubbing mustard oil into their skin, and worshipping the sacred maati, a mixture drawn from the Ganga, enriched with neem, turmeric, ghee, and mustard oil.

Wrestlers begin with dands and baithaks (traditional push-ups and squats), followed by wrestling sessions, mud application for grip and stamina, and finally a dip in the Ganga. The proximity to the river is more than symbolic, it aids in post-training recovery, connects the wrestlers with nature, and reflects the first rays of the sun, which Suraj claims is more beneficial than any artificial supplements. There’s a special reverence for the langot, not just as attire but as a moral commitment. “Guruji always said that the moment we tie this langot, we make a promise to never look at a woman with malicious eyes,” says a regular trainee, Nopany. It’s about channelling energy — turning physical prowess into spiritual practice.

The benefits of Kushti, as Suraj outlines, go beyond physical strength. “Pehlwani is not only good for health but also for mental health,” he explains. “Being a pehalwan requires a lot more dedication than being a gym rat. In the gym, you can take supplements, smoke, or drink. Here, you leave all bad habits behind. The stress that builds up in the head and chest? It burns out here, in this mud.” Indeed, the soil of Siyaram Akhara has healed many. Men like Nopany, who battled depression, and Ajay Singh, who overcame addiction and diabetes, found solace in wrestling’s discipline. Singh says, “We apply the mud for grip and friction. If you ever feel weak, just apply this mud on yourself and you’ll feel the difference.”

But this tradition, though alive, faces quiet threats. “These days, people prefer gyms. Many are shy about Kushti,” Suraj admits. “Still, it hasn’t really affected the culture. In Bengal, we have fewer pahalwans compared to UP, Haryana, or Punjab, but those who carry this legacy forward — they do it with heart.” He notes how Kushti has evolved over time. “It’s not just about strength anymore. A lean body doesn’t mean you’re weak. A bulky body doesn’t make you strong. Now it’s about technique, mind play, and precision.” 

On the subject of gender, Suraj is unshaken. “We see everyone as a pehalwan, not as male or female. The ground doesn’t discriminate.” He reminisces about a match with Sheetal Tomar, a female wrestler who once challenged anyone in Bengal to face her. “There was no one. So I accepted. It was a great six-minute fight,” he says. “But I look forward to the day when a female wrestler from Bengal wins such a challenge. It would be like watching Maa Durga in the akhara.” 

Honouring The Mud

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In a city bursting with modern infrastructure and ever-growing tech hubs, Siyaram Akhara stands as a living monument of Indian culture, quietly holding on to values that once defined heroism — discipline, humility, and strength. Yet, despite its legacy and contribution to society, it receives zero support from the government, no grants, no recognition.  
As Suraj puts it, “Sab barabar hai yahan —Akhara mai sab pahalwan hain.” Here, everyone is equal — once you enter the battleground, you become a wrestler.

Where: Chote Lal Ghat, 3Strand Bank Road, Phool market, B.B.D. Bagh, Kolkata, West Bengal 700001

When: 5:30 a.m. – 8:00 a.m.

Contact: 072780 01182