From Kashmir's Hearth to Delhi's Streets, How Pheran Has Become the New Winter Uniform

When Ranbir Kapoor's character Jordan wandered through the snow-dusted lanes of Srinagar in Rockstar, audiences glimpsed Kashmir's traditional winter wear, the pheran, as part of the film's romantic, culturally textured backdrop. Thirteen years on, that same garment has quietly migrated from cinema screens to Delhi's streets, metro carriages and neighbourhood markets. 

The pheran, a loose-fitting woollen cloak with Persian origins, was historically designed for survival during Kashmir's brutal winters, particularly the 40-day Chillai Kalan period when temperatures plummet well below freezing. Traditionally crafted from locally sourced wool and worn over a lighter inner layer called a poots, the pheran's structure allows wearers to carry a kangri, a portable earthenware fire pot, inside, creating a mobile heating system ingeniously adapted to the Valley's climate.

Historians trace the garment's roots to the 15th century, with some attributing its introduction to Mughal emperor Akbar during his conquest of Kashmir in 1586, whilst others credit Persian and Central Asian Sufi saints and scholars whose long robes became precursors to the pheran. What began as two overlapping gowns extending to the feet has evolved considerably: by the late 19th century, shorter knee-length versions emerged, and today's iterations range from traditional ankle-length designs to contemporary cuts paired with jeans and leggings. The embroidery styles, tilla, aari, sozni, and kani, have grown more elaborate, particularly on women's pherans, which often feature intricate craftsmanship passed down through generations.

At the 51st CR Park Poush Mela this year, customers lined up at a pheran stall and spoke of the garment with easy familiarity. "Ever since I first tried a pheran, I've been hooked, it's become a constant in my winter wardrobe," said one shopper, Bhoomika Chatterjee, a lawyer by profession, browsing through embroidered pieces spread across a stall. 

Bhoomika also remarked on the shift in visibility, "What once made me distinctly noticed has now become commonplace, there are so many people in pherans that I just blend into the season's usual crowd. If I wear a pheran to a place like Jashn-e-Rekhta, I physically cringe at the fact that I would also be counted as a new-age trend follower." 

The numbers tell a similar story. Sellers who travelled from Kashmir to set up temporary stalls at the mela reported brisk business well before peak winter set in. "Over the past couple of winters the appetite for pherans has grown tremendously, we've barely entered the season and already sent hundreds of pieces straight to Delhi," one vendor, Mir Azlan, explained. In neighbourhoods like Rajouri Garden or Nangloi where a handful of shawl traders once operated quietly, the landscape has transformed. "Where there were only a couple of traders selling shawls and pherans a few seasons ago, there are now nearly a dozen, a sure sign of how popular they've become," noted a seller, Rajesh Shah, at Nangloi Woollen Cloth Market, where the garment now commands dedicated displays alongside more conventional winterwear.

From Necessity to Cultural Statement

The pheran's journey from regional necessity to cultural symbol reflects broader shifts in how urban India engages with craft and heritage. Hamiast, a brand working closely with Kashmiri artisans, observed that the appeal lies beyond aesthetics. "The phiran has always been practical at its core, but today it carries meaning beyond warmth. Its presence in contemporary wardrobes speaks to a desire for clothing that feels slower, more intentional, and emotionally grounded. For many wearers, it represents comfort, nostalgia and craft, even if they aren't from Kashmir themselves."

This symbolic resonance has widened the pheran's consumer base considerably. "Initially, pherans were mainly ordered and worn by Muslim women, even in cities like Delhi and parts of Uttar Pradesh, but over the past three to four years they've gained traction across a much wider range of people," said Hamiast. The shift suggests that the pheran is being read less as ethnic wear tied to specific communities and more as versatile, culturally rich clothing that fits comfortably within diverse lifestyles.

“Phirans were once seen purely as regional winter wear, worn out of necessity rather than choice. What's changed is the way urban consumers now approach clothing — there's a growing appetite for garments that carry story, comfort and cultural depth," noted Nazeera Alam, a micro influencer hailing from Kashmir and a student from Delhi University.

"In cities like Delhi, people are gravitating towards pieces that feel rooted yet contemporary, especially during winter when layering becomes central to personal style. Social media has played a big role in this shift. Seeing the phiran styled in everyday, urban contexts, worn with jeans, boots, even statement jewellery, helped break the idea that it belonged only to one geography."

Craft Under Pressure

Yet this popularity brings complications. Economic opportunity for artisans exists alongside troubling questions about authenticity and exploitation. "The surge in interest has been a real boost for the craftsmen, more orders mean steadier employment and improved pay, especially during seasons when embroidery work can otherwise slow down," acknowledged a representative from Hamiast. But sellers at Nangloi's woollen market offered a more cautious perspective. "Around seventy to eighty per cent of pherans you see advertised online or even here at the market today are actually machine-produced elsewhere, often with mixed wool, rather than genuine Kashmiri handwork," Mir warned, saying that real wool pherans would cost a fortune or lesser but not this “dirt cheap” as they are today.

This tension between accessibility and integrity sits at the heart of the pheran's current moment. Brands like Hamiast have attempted to navigate this carefully. "When designing phirans for a wider audience, the balance lies in knowing what not to change. The silhouette, the proportion, the way the garment falls, these are elements we're careful to preserve because they define the phiran's identity. Similarly, traditional embroidery techniques and locally sourced wool remain non-negotiable for us."

The challenge, they suggest, is ensuring that evolution doesn't become erasure. "Innovation comes in through subtle shifts: softer linings, refined cuts, or colours that work across urban wardrobes. We might experiment with length or styling versatility, but we're mindful not to dilute the craft or turn the phiran into something unrecognisable."

The economic stakes are concrete. Bemina Woollen Mills, one of the few operational processing facilities in Kashmir, produces around 150,000 metres of mechanised tweed annually across 50 shades and patterns, a fraction of the region's wool output. "Even now, we are not using more than a million kilograms" of the 75 lakh kg produced yearly, officials noted, highlighting the gap between resource availability and local processing capacity.

The Question of Belonging

Cultural commentators have noted that the pheran's migration into mainstream wardrobes raises questions about appropriation, credit and economic justice. "Wearing a pheran with an understanding of its roots and giving credit where it's due is a way of celebrating culture. It only becomes appropriation when the source community is erased and loses credit and economic benefit."

Hamiast echoed this sentiment in commercial terms. "The new phiran consumer is curious, culturally engaged and values provenance. They're not necessarily looking for something 'ethnic', but for a garment that feels meaningful and well-made. Our responsibility, then, is to communicate the phiran's history clearly, by foregrounding the artisans, the processes, and the region it comes from, rather than just the aesthetic."

Still, discomfort lingers. When a garment becomes fashionable, it risks being flattened into style rather than story. The pheran's widespread adoption in Delhi, a city where it now functions as casual winterwear rather than cultural marker, prompts reflection on what gets retained and what gets lost. "We're conscious of the fine line between accessibility and appropriation. Marketability can never come at the cost of erasing origins," said Hamiast. "There have been moments where scaling or simplifying designs might have been easier commercially, but we've chosen restraint instead."

For sellers who have spent years building livelihoods around the craft, the stakes are concrete. The pheran's popularity has brought visibility and income, but also anxiety about whether that momentum will sustain artisans or sideline them in favour of cheaper imitations. As Mir put it plainly, “The question isn't whether Delhi should wear pherans. It's whether, in doing so, the city remembers where they come from.”

Where to Buy Kashmiri Pherans: Your Complete Shopping Guide

Discover the finest authentic Kashmiri pherans from these trusted online retailers, each offering unique collections that celebrate Kashmir's rich textile heritage.

1. Gyawun

Gyawun is a Kashmir-based online marketplace dedicated to preserving and promoting authentic Kashmiri craftsmanship. They ship worldwide from Srinagar, offering an extensive range of traditional pherans with various embroidery styles including hand aari work, machine aari work, sozni embroidery, and tilla work. Their collection features pherans in premium fabrics like pashmina, raffal, and velvet, as well as budget-friendly options in cashmilon and polywool. Gyawun is particularly known for their detailed sizing guides and educational content about pheran styles, making them an excellent choice for first-time buyers seeking genuine Kashmiri products.

Price Range:Rs. 500 - Rs. 50,000

2. Baraqah

Baraqah specializes in modest Islamic wear with a beautiful selection of traditional Kashmiri pherans for both men and women. Their collection focuses on contemporary designs that blend traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibilities, featuring herringbone patterns, dotted textures, and checkered designs. Based in Srinagar at Sara City Centre, Baraqah offers fleece pherans with inner lining, tweed fabric options, and both dotted and herringbone patterns. They emphasize comfort and functionality while maintaining cultural authenticity, making their pherans ideal for everyday winter wear.

Price Range:Rs. 3,300 - Rs. 3,999

3. Hamiast

Hamiast is a luxury brand established in 2018 that celebrates Jammu and Kashmir's cultural heritage through carefully curated products. Their pheran collection showcases exquisite craftsmanship with aari embroidery and zari work on cashmilon and pure wool fabrics. Hamiast offers a wide variety of color options and frequently runs sales with discounts ranging from 4% to 22%. As part of their larger mission to empower local artisans and craftsmen, purchasing from Hamiast directly supports the Kashmiri community and helps preserve traditional embroidery techniques.

Price Range:Rs. 2,199 - Rs. 3,599

4. Kashmir Box

Kashmir Box is an established online platform offering one of the most extensive collections of Kashmiri pherans, with over 50 designs available. They specialize in woolen phirans featuring intricate embroidery work including golden and silver boti tilla, aari embroidery, and zari work. Their curated collections like "Mehfil" and "Sehar" showcase premium cashmilon and pure wool options in a stunning array of colors from traditional maroons and greens to contemporary teals and pinks. Kashmir Box ships orders within 24 hours and offers same-day delivery in Delhi NCR, making them a reliable choice for quick purchases.

Price Range: Rs. 2,999 - Rs. 6,499

5. House of Kari

House of Kari is a homegrown label renowned for celebrating traditional craftsmanship through contemporary designs. While primarily known for their chikankari work, their Kashmiri phiran collection features beautiful cashmilon woolen pieces with intricate aari embroidery in multiple colorways. They offer competitive pricing with frequent sales offering 20-27% discounts and an additional 5% off on prepaid orders. House of Kari provides three size options (S-M, L-XL, XXL-3XL) to ensure the perfect fit. Their focus on supporting women artisans and honoring age-old craft traditions makes them a socially conscious shopping choice.

Price Range: Rs. 2,199 - Rs. 2,999