North East Silk Struggles for Recognition Despite GI Recognitions, Schemes Worth Crores and Growing Market Awareness

North-East India's silk industry occupies a paradoxical space in the country's textile landscape. Home to the world's only source of golden Muga silk and a major producer of non-violent Eri silk, the region contributes approximately 8,300 metric tonnes (MT) to India's total raw silk production of 41,121 MT as of FY25. Yet despite this unique positioning and recent policy momentum, North-Eastern silks remain largely peripheral to mainstream fashion discourse.

The numbers tell a story of both potential and constraint. Assam alone contributes 95% of India's Muga silk and 65% of its Eri production, with over 9,500 sericulture villages sustaining the craft. Raw silk production in North-Eastern states has grown from 4,601 MT to 8,300 MT over the past decade, a 55% increase that reflects government investment through schemes like the North East Region Textile Promotion Scheme (NERTPS) and Silk Samagra-2, which has a budget of Rs 4,679.85 crore for 2021-26.

However, the sector remains fragile. As Darshan Dudhoria, CEO of Indian Silk House Agencies, observes, “North-East silks are at a very interesting inflection point right now. For a long time, Muga and Eri were seen as beautiful but niche - something people admired, but didn't really build serious consumer businesses around. That is changing."

This change, whilst palpable, remains incomplete. The industry still grapples with fundamental challenges like limited infrastructure, inconsistent quality, weak market linkages, and crucially, insufficient engagement from India's organised fashion sector.

The Policy Push and Production Reality

The year 2025, declared the Year of Textile Reforms by the Indian government, has brought renewed attention to North-Eastern silks. Prime Minister Narendra Modi's mention of Meghalaya's Eri silk in his June 2025 Mann Ki Baat address marked a significant moment. Calling it "a symbol of sustainable heritage and indigenous craftsmanship" and "Ahimsa Silk" due to its non-violent production process, Modi highlighted its appeal to global markets seeking ethical textiles. The address came shortly after Meghalaya's Eri silk received Geographical Indication (GI) tag recognition.

Such high-level recognition has tangible effects. As Tinky Ningombam, Founder and Creative Director of MOROK India, a textile brand working with North-Eastern silks, notes, "Institutional support through training programmes and schemes has contributed to strengthening skills and maintaining production in many communities. In several cases, this has translated into more stable work opportunities for artisans, especially women, and supplementary income for weaving."

Government data supports this assessment. As of January 2025, the silk sector employs an estimated 8.09 million people, with 7.12 million in direct employment. The Silk Samagra-2 scheme has disbursed Rs 1,075.58 crore to states, benefiting approximately 78,000 stakeholders. Some 109 Automatic Reeling Machines have been established across India, producing international-grade 3A and 4A quality silk.

Yet policy gains don't automatically translate to market transformation. Kakoli Bora, founder of The Silk Chamber, an Assam-based enterprise, offers a sobering perspective, "Progress is only on paper. Many benefit schemes take years to materialise on the ground, delaying income gains for weavers and farmers. Clusters have no formal financial and working capital support. No quality assurance. Digital tools are available but are so complicated. Take the example of Silk Mark accreditation. I have to apply in person. No online provision."

The contrast with government operations in developed economies is stark. Kakoli continues, "Compare that to the workings of government bodies in Singapore where we operate - it took us one day to register and set up our business."

Market Challenges and Climate Threats

The production challenges facing North-Eastern silk extend beyond administrative inefficiency. Climate change is disrupting traditional rearing cycles, with recent heat waves affecting the highly sensitive Muga silkworm (Antheraea assamensis), which feeds exclusively on som and soalu trees endemic to Assam. As The Silk Chamber notes, "Muga silk is highly sensitive to the pesticides used in farming and tea gardens. Recent heat waves have disrupted rearing cycles. Decline of natural habitat/deforestation is leading to unstable cocoon outputs and income."

Market adulteration compounds these ecological pressures. "Mixing non-Muga/tussar fibres as 'Muga' undermines producer prices and consumer trust. Need better certification tools," Kakoli explains. More troublingly, she alleges systemic corruption, "The CM's wife is known to hoard Muga cocoons creating a shortage of Muga silk in the market, misusing government schemes and inflating the price."

For emerging producers like Bijayashanti Tongbram, who pioneered India's first lotus silk production in Manipur, the challenges are equally formidable. Speaking about her enterprise, which employs rural women around Loktak Lake, she explains, "For one scarf, it takes one month nearly to make, from extraction to weaving. This time, we could meet the market demand. But for a huge amount, we cannot meet the market demand."

The labour-intensive nature of North-Eastern silk production, often cited as its ethical strength, becomes a commercial liability in a market demanding scalability. This tension between authenticity and commercial viability defines the sector's current predicament.

The Fashion Industry's Reluctant Embrace

The global sustainable fashion movement should, theoretically, be North-Eastern silk's moment. Eri silk's non-violent production, the cocoons are harvested only after moths emerge naturally, aligns perfectly with contemporary ethical consumption. Muga's rarity and durability, where the fabric famously outlives its owner, position it as an heirloom luxury. International attention is growing too. Zohran Mamdani, the new Mayor of New York City, wore an Eri silk tie at his January 1, 2026 inauguration, gaining global coverage.

Yet domestic fashion industry engagement remains limited. As The Silk Chamber observes, "Demand - more customers are aware of Eri silk. A couple of years ago, I had participated at Dastkar Mela in Bangalore and had a hard time convincing buyers that Eri is also a type of silk. People mistook it for cotton and thought we were lying to charge a premium price. Now we see a growing demand for cruelty-free, climate-friendly textiles. There is a niche growth particularly amongst conscious fashion brands and designers seeking natural, ethical fibres."

This growth, however, is concentrated amongst niche conscious brands rather than mainstream fashion houses. Darshan Dudhoria identifies the core gaps, "The biggest one is branding. People know Banarasi. They know Kanchipuram. Very few people emotionally know Eri or Ryndia yet. We haven't built icons, signature collections, or global references around these fibres."

The value chain structure exacerbates this visibility problem. "Too much of the money is still made after the fabric leaves the North-East," Dudhoria notes. "Until more weaving, finishing, design, and even storage happen closer to the communities, incomes will stay limited."

MOROK India highlights the infrastructural constraints, "Limited local infrastructure for yarn production means we often have to depend on raw materials and/or processes outside the State, which increases costs and reduces our control over quality. Because our work is deeply handmade, scaling production whilst keeping it sustainable and true to its roots is always a careful balance."

The export potential remains similarly underdeveloped. India exported silk products worth US$246 million in FY25, but North-Eastern silks capture only a fraction of this. "International buyers need reliability. Today, quality and documentation still vary too much at cluster level," Dudhoria explains. The Silk Chamber has been contacted by design houses in the USA for wholesale supply, evidence of demand. But systematic export infrastructure remains lacking.

Consumer awareness presents another barrier. "Most customers still don't really understand what makes these silks special - peace silk, wild silk, GI, rarity, community impact," notes Dudhoria. "Until that becomes common knowledge, these textiles won't get the respect or pricing they deserve."

The sector also faces an unexpected challenge: welfare policy design. The Silk Chamber offers a controversial observation: "Over 85-90% of Assam weavers work in the informal sector. The Indian government provides direct cash transfers, subsidies, and free entitlements to households below certain income thresholds. However, when income support is not linked to productivity and skills, it can create unintended behavioural and economic consequences. This long-term unconditional support has contributed to reduced willingness to do hard, seasonal work. Weavers expect that the state - not effort - will bridge income gaps."

Whilst this assessment is contentious and oversimplifies complex socio-economic dynamics, it points to a genuine tension: how to balance social protection with market competitiveness in artisanal sectors.

The state of North-Eastern silk in 2025 is thus one of tentative transition. Production is growing, policy attention is intensifying, and global awareness is building. Yet the industry remains caught between heritage and modernity, between community sustainability and market demands, between governmental rhetoric and ground-level implementation. As Darshan Dudhoria concludes, "The opportunity is massive. But the next phase is not about discovery anymore. It's about building brands, building systems, and building long-term markets around North-East silks. If we get this right, North-East silks can become one of India's strongest soft-power textiles - commercially viable, globally respected, and genuinely transformative for local communities."

Whether the fashion industry, domestic and international, will provide the commercial scaffolding to realise this vision remains the sector's defining question. The golden thread exists; the challenge is weaving it into the fabric of global fashion.

Where to Buy North East Silk Textiles: Your Complete Shopping Guide

Discover the finest authentic North East Indian silk textiles from these trusted retailers, each offering unique collections that celebrate the region's rich weaving heritage and traditional craftsmanship.

Morok India

Morok India is a dedicated platform showcasing the vibrant textile traditions of Northeast India, with a special focus on Manipuri handlooms. They offer an exquisite collection of traditional silk textiles including Moirang Phee, traditional Manipuri shawls, and intricately woven fabrics that reflect the region's cultural heritage. Based in Manipur, Morok India works directly with local weavers to bring authentic handwoven silk products to a wider audience. Their collection features traditional motifs and weaving techniques passed down through generations, making them an excellent choice for those seeking genuine Northeast Indian textiles with cultural significance.

Price Range:Rs. 2,000 - Rs. 25,000

The Silk Chamber

The Silk Chamber is a premium online boutique specializing in handwoven silks from across India, including beautiful selections from the Northeast region. They curate an elegant collection featuring Assamese Muga silk, Eri silk, and traditional silk mekhela chadors, along with stoles, sarees, and dress materials. Their expertise lies in presenting these traditional textiles in contemporary designs that appeal to modern sensibilities while preserving authentic weaving techniques. The Silk Chamber provides detailed product descriptions about the origin, weaving process, and care instructions for each piece, helping customers appreciate the craftsmanship behind every textile.

Price Range: Rs. 3,500 - Rs. 40,000

Indian Silk House Agencies

Indian Silk House Agencies is an established retailer with a comprehensive collection of silk textiles from various regions of India, including significant representation of Northeast handlooms. They offer Assamese Muga silk sarees, traditional Pat silk products, and Eri silk stoles and shawls. With physical stores and an online presence, they provide access to authentic government-certified silk products from the Northeast. Their collection includes both traditional designs and contemporary adaptations, featuring the distinctive golden hue of Muga silk and the natural texture of Eri silk that the region is famous for.

Price Range: Rs. 1,500 - Rs. 35,000

North Eastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation (NEHHDC)

NEHHDC is a government enterprise established to promote and market authentic handicrafts and handlooms from all eight Northeastern states. Their platform offers an unparalleled collection of traditional silk textiles including Assamese Muga, Eri, and Pat silks, Manipuri Moirang Phee, Nagaland shawls, Tripura handloom fabrics, and textiles from Meghalaya, Mizoram, and Arunachal Pradesh. As a government-backed initiative, NEHHDC ensures fair pricing for weavers while guaranteeing authenticity and quality to customers. They offer silk sarees, mekhela chadors, stoles, shawls, dress materials, and home furnishings, making them a one-stop destination for genuine Northeast silk products.

Price Range: Rs. 800 - Rs. 30,000

Sanajing Sanathambal

Sanajing Sanathambal is a Manipur-based brand celebrating the intricate textile traditions of the state, particularly the art of traditional Manipuri weaving. They specialize in handwoven silk textiles featuring traditional patterns and motifs unique to Manipuri culture, including the distinctive Moirang Phee and traditional Manipuri innaphi (shawls). Working closely with local artisan communities, Sanajing Sanathambal ensures that each piece represents authentic craftsmanship while supporting the livelihoods of traditional weavers. Their collection showcases the vibrant colors and geometric patterns characteristic of Manipuri textiles, offering customers a direct connection to this living heritage.

Price Range: Rs. 2,500 - Rs. 20,000