Madhav Agasti’s Five-Decade Journey of Crafting Cinema’s Most Iconic Villains

In the vast world of Indian cinema, where characters endure through dialogues, expressions, and unforgettable frames, there exists another language of storytelling—one woven through fabric, silhouette, and texture. Few artists have shaped this language as profoundly as Madhav Agasti, the veteran costume designer who completes fifty remarkable years in the industry. His work has defined some of Bollywood’s most iconic villains, political leaders, and cinematic identities, earning him an irreplaceable place in India’s creative legacy. Agasti’s journey is not simply the story of a designer; it is the story of a craftsman whose work became character. “I always say a costume is not fabric but psychology stitched into form,” he says. “If the actor doesn’t feel the character the moment they wear it, my job isn’t complete.”

A Journey That Began with a Single Scissor

Agasti arrived in Mumbai with just a single scissor and an unwavering belief in the power of skill. He had not set out to become a designer, yet the city had other plans. While crafting a jacket for a small production, he saw the actor transform as soon as he wore it. His posture shifted, his confidence elevated, and suddenly the character emerged fully formed. This moment changed Agasti’s life. “That day, I realised tailoring wasn’t just a profession—it was my purpose,” he reflects. It was the beginning of a five-decade journey that would shape some of Indian cinema’s most compelling visual identities.

From menacing silhouettes to iconic accessories, Agasti’s designs for iconic Bollywood villains like Mogambo, Gabbar, and Crime Master Gogo have become cultural milestones. His approach to crafting these characters begins long before needle meets fabric. He starts with psychology. “Before I sketch, I study the soul,” he explains. “A villain must have a visual signature. If the audience can identify the character from a silhouette, the design has succeeded.”

Mogambo embodied authority, Gabbar represented chaos, and Gogo lived in playful eccentricity. Each costume carried an energy that made the character instantly recognisable, even in a still image. For Agasti, clothing is not decorative—it is narrative. A single outfit, he believes, can alter the entire perception of a character. “Villains don’t always speak first; their costume enters the frame before they do,” he says. “Costume doesn’t follow character—it enhances character.” His meticulous attention to detail has given Hindi cinema some of its most visually powerful antagonists—characters whose presence is felt even before they utter a word.

Five Decades of Evolution in Costume Design

Across fifty years, Agasti has seen the industry shift from the simplicity of cutting tables to the complexity of digital lookbooks and advanced costume departments. But despite technological evolution, he maintains that the essence of the craft remains human. “We have faster tools now, but cinema still needs the human touch. Technology can guide you, but it cannot replace intuition or empathy.”

The tools have modernised, but the art—the instinct of understanding fabric, body, and character—remains timeless. Agasti’s creativity extends beyond films. He has also designed outfits for political leaders, a space where costume carries symbolism and restraint. “In cinema, I design for drama. In politics, I design for dignity,” he says.

Among all the iconic characters he has worked on, Mogambo remains his most creatively demanding. The character required grandeur without slipping into caricature, authority without losing realism. “We experimented with countless fabrics and embroideries until we found the right balance. Mogambo had to look larger-than-life and believable at the same time,” he shares. The silhouette that emerged became one of the most defining villain looks in Indian cinema.

Agasti’s inspiration is rooted in observation. He draws ideas from history, military tailoring, old photographs, and even everyday people on the streets of Mumbai. Sometimes a single cuff detail or the curve of a boot can spark an entire design direction. “Villains are not fantasies; they are reflections of society. I don’t design evil—I design human beings who stepped into darker choices.”

Precision lies at the heart of Agasti’s work. Even today, he cuts patterns himself, guided by three enduring principles: fit is truth, hands must stay trained, and ego has no place in tailoring. “Listen to the actor. Understand the director. Respect the fabric. Let the costume speak,” he says. His philosophy has shaped not only his own journey but also those of many young designers he has mentored.

The Joy That Fuels Fifty Years

Despite the long hours and relentless focus his work requires, Madhav Agasti’s motivation has remained constant: transformation. Seeing an actor become someone else because of a costume still fills him with the same joy he felt as a young craftsman in Mumbai. “That moment of change—that’s what keeps me going, even today.” As he celebrates his golden jubilee, Agasti leaves behind a message for aspiring designers, tailors, and craftsmen: “Respect the craft. Respect the fabric. And respect the journey. Titles will fade—but good tailoring will always survive.”