Lalbaug Masala Gully: A Walk Through Mumbai's Most Aromatic Street!

Mumbai, often called the 'City of Dreams', is the financial capital of Maharashtra and one of the most populous cities in the world. With nearly 20 million people making ends meet, it is also home to diverse cultures and traditions. One can rightfully say that this city is an amalgamation of cultures. But what if I told you that, amidst the concrete jungle, traffic jams, and crowded roads, lies a quaint street that awakens your senses? A lane that has blended culture and traditions for over 100 years. If you haven’t guessed it yet, I’m talking about Lalbaug’s Masala Gully! It is the only gully in Mumbai where you can smell the fragrant and pungent aroma of fresh spices roasting. Most of us are aware of this gully, but do we know the cultural history behind it? Just like me, if you are curious and wish to learn more about the history of Lalbaug’s Masala Gully, then this article is for you.

A Day Out in the Spiceland of Mumbai

It was a sunny Tuesday morning when my colleague and I set out to explore the iconic masala gully. As it was our first time visiting this part of the city, we were clueless about the directions. However, as the taxi turned right, a strong gale of wind began to blow, and our noses quickly picked up a distinct aroma. Usually, in a city where most of us inhale smoke and dust, this was a rather surprising and pleasant scent. And, alas, we had arrived at the most iconic street in Mumbai. People were restlessly waiting, standing in queues to select their spices, while some were waiting since the brink of dawn. As we spoke to a few people, we learned that they had come from all corners of the city to stock up on spices before the monsoons began. 

When Local Samosa enquired about Pooja Sakpal, aged 32, the reason behind her travel from Mulund to Lalbaug, she said, “For years now, my family has had freshly roasted spices from Lalbaug. I don’t prefer the readymade, packaged masalas we get in the market. The flavour, texture, and aroma of these readymade, packed masalas seem artificial. They don’t last long and contain preservatives, which are bad for health.” Pooja, a resident of Mulund, had placed a massive order for 5 kg of Malvani Masala from the Chavan Brothers shop no. 5. When we asked her about other masalas she buys from the gully, she replied, “In my home, we often prepare non-vegetarian dishes. And for these dishes, the Malvani masala is the right fit. It contains a variety of fresh spices like red chillies, pepper, star anise, bay leaf, and more.” She added, “Other than the Malvani masala, we also buy the Kaanda Lasun Masala (Onion and Garlic Masala) and Garam Masala.” For the last five years, Sakpal has been transferring between two trains to reach the masala gully before the harsh sunlight hits the roads of Mumbai.

But why endure this tedious journey for a handful of masalas? It might sound absolutely bonkers to us; however, Mangal Mestry, aged 54, thinks otherwise. “For almost 10 years, I have been coming to Lalbaug. Despite changes in recent food consumption trends, where all items are now available at the blink of an eye, I’d rather stand here in the scorching heat and head home with a bag full of freshly ground masalas.” Mestry continued, “We’ve tried the store-bought masalas, but unfortunately, they do not taste the same. Our food tastes bland. Here, we get to choose our own set of raw spices, and everything is done in front of us. It has zero added preservatives and lasts for more than two years.” Mangal Mestry had ordered a 5 kg batch of Garam Masala and Malvani Masala. The Malvani Masala comprises around 27 spices and takes over 6 hours to prepare.

When we asked Mestry, “Do you ever think the masala shops would stop functioning?” she confidently replied, “Never. These shops have been around for almost 100 years. They have been a part of many kitchens all over the city. As long as these shops keep running, people from all nooks and corners of the city will flock here to get fresh and authentic masalas. With the advent of new technology, age-old traditional businesses have moved online. If you wish to purchase freshly ground masalas but can’t travel, you can now place a telephonic order or message the respective masala shop online."

But why Lalbaug Masala Gully?

As we roamed around the masala gully, soaking in the aromatic fragrance of freshly ground spices, we stumbled upon many Mumbaikars who bought their masalas from the oldest shop in Lalbaug Masala Gully: the Chavan Brothers (Shop no. 5). Among them were Meenakshi Pail and Maithali Patil, aged 53 and 40, respectively. The residents of Chembur opined, “We’ve been coming to Lalbaug for the last 30 to 35 years. It’s the third generation of our family, and for all these years, we’ve been purchasing our masala from Chavan Brothers (shop no. 5).” The duo had placed an order for Agri Masala and Garam Masala. When our team enquired, “What ingredients go in the Agri Masala?”, Meenakshi Patil replied, “Since we are Kolis, we consume a lot of fish. And the Agri Masala has been used in our cooking for years now. It consists of roughly 20 to 25 spices like Sankeshwari Mirchi, Kashmiri Mirchi, Debri Mirchi, Peppercorn, and more.”

When we asked Maithali Patil why she opted for masalas from Lalbaug and not the readymade ones, she replied, “For over 30 years now, we’ve been using freshly ground masalas in our culinary preparations. We know what is being added, we get to select the raw ingredients, and we can see the entire process. There’s nothing to hide. Whereas the readymade packaged masalas are filled with preservatives. Their taste is distinctly bland and not up to the mark. The packaged masalas are often mass-produced in factories; hence, their taste is also considerably insipid.” One can easily purchase the readymade packaged masalas anytime and anywhere, although the Mumbaikars gathered here seem least interested in those. The masalas here are ground using traditional methods and equipment. ‘Dunki’, as most locals referred to it, was a common sight in every masala shop in the gully.

The Oldest Shop in the Lalbaug Masala Gully

When we asked Vijay Chavan, the third-generation owner of Chavan Brothers (shop no. 5), “What is it that attracts people towards these masalas?”, he replied, “Our shop is the oldest and the first shop in Lalbaug. It was started in 1937 by my grandfather and has been running for 88 years! The reason why people keep coming here is that they know our masalas and the process of making them is authentic and traditional. Unlike other shops, we still use the traditional equipment, ‘Dunki’, to grind these masalas into a fine powder.”

He added, “People now trust our brand as they’ve been coming here for years. At times, people have switched to packaged, readymade masalas but have come back to our store at the end of the day, as their food doesn’t taste the same.” Roughly in a day, the Chavan Brothers have around 60 to 70 orders and sell around 300 to 350 kg of masalas. If one enters this iconic lane, one can spot people sitting in the blazing heat, waiting for their turn. A fun fact, what many might not know, is that the ‘Dunki’ used to grind the masalas is manufactured in Kolhapur, as the raw materials are sourced from all over India. “We can also customise the Dunki to make it more suited to our requirements. Thus, the masalas grind properly and can last longer”. 

As our visit came to an end, the thought echoes in one's mind. In a fast-paced urban sprawl like Mumbai, where everything is time-bound, so stands the city's most cherished cultural legacy. Probably the only place where we'll find Mumbaikars waiting patiently and not in a hurry. The Lalbaug's Masala Gully is an example of the city's rich and diverse culture, and why it needs to be preserved. The next time you're in Lalbaug, do visit the Lalbaug Masala Gully and let the fragrant aroma of the spices take your senses on a ride!