The Legacy of Kuremal Mohanlal Kulfi Wale: Delhi’s Iconic Summer Treat Since 1906

"You won't find something like this anywhere else", says Farzana Ahmed, a transgender Chandni Chowk queer history and food walk curator, while taking a bite of the cold falsa kulfi at the oldest Kuremal outlet.

In the labyrinthine lanes of Old Delhi's Chawri Bazaar, amidst the cacophony of commerce and chaos, stands a sweet sanctuary that has defied time and trends. Kuremal Mohanlal Kulfi Wale, established in 1906, remains Delhi's most beloved frozen dessert destination more than a century later. This iconic establishment has journeyed from humble beginnings as a seasonal business run by an 11-year-old Haryana farmer's son to becoming a culinary institution that serves approximately 6,000 handcrafted kulfi daily across Delhi.

"I've been coming here since I was a boy in the 1970s, and now I bring my grandchildren," shares Rajinder Singh, a 68-year-old retired teacher whose family has savoured these frozen delights across four generations. "The taste hasn't changed a bit—it's like tasting my childhood with every spoonful."

From Farmlands to Presidential Palace: The Remarkable Journey

The story begins not in Delhi, but in the farmlands of Haryana. At the tender age of 11, Kirorimal Mohanlal, a farmer's son from Jhajjar district, sought adventure beyond tilling soil. Inspired by an uncle who sold kulfis locally, young Kirorimal envisioned bringing this frozen delight to Delhi's urban dwellers. After helping his brothers harvest the rabi crops each spring, he would journey to Delhi for the scorching summer months, renting a small room with his farming savings.

Without modern refrigeration, his ingenuity shone through—using earthen pots (matkas) filled with ice slabs and salt to create freezing temperatures below zero degrees. Setting his kulfi mixture in clay containers called 'mitti ka koonja', he would carry these in a large clay pot balanced atop his head, traversing Old Delhi's winding streets. Each kulfi, served on a leaf, sold for four annas (a quarter of a rupee), with daily sales reaching about 100 pieces—remarkable for a seasonal business in early 20th-century Delhi.

What began as seasonal work continued for three decades until 1940, when Kirorimal, alongside his son Mohanlal, established their first permanent outlet in Chawri Bazaar. This father-son partnership marked the transformation from street vendor to institution. Mohanlal proved himself a visionary, expanding their repertoire from just two varieties—kesar pista (saffron pistachio) and rabri (sweet condensed milk)—to more than 20 distinctive flavours by the 1950s.

His methodology was brilliantly strategic: new flavours would debut at catering events, where mass gatherings provided instant customer feedback before introducing successful creations to the shop. The family's reputation soared when Mohanlal received the prestigious invitation to serve their kulfis at Rashtrapati Bhavan (the Presidential Palace). With undisguised pride, he would arrive on his horse-drawn tonga, earthen pots in tow, passing numerous security officers to deliver this humble dessert to India's highest office.

Innovation in Tradition: The Art of Stuffed Kulfis and Exotic Flavours

The 1980s witnessed perhaps the most revolutionary innovation in Kuremal's history—the introduction of stuffed fruit kulfis by Sunil Sharma, the third-generation proprietor. This painstaking process involves carefully removing the seeds from fruits while preserving their shells, then filling them with a mixture of the fruit's own pulp and kesar pista kulfi. Each fruit is sealed with wheat dough and stored in earthen pots for three to four hours before being sliced and served—a labour-intensive process that exemplifies their commitment to craftsmanship over convenience. 

"The masala they sprinkle over the sorbet is absolutely magical," enthuses Priya Sharma, a 26-year-old digital content creator who visited after seeing Kuremal's colourful kulfis trending on Instagram. "We queued for almost half an hour, but it was worth every minute. The mango stuffed kulfi is literally the most photogenic dessert in Delhi—and tastes even better than it looks."

Today's menu showcases an astonishing 71 varieties, producing approximately 6,000 kulfis daily. Beyond the classic kesar pista, adventurous palates can explore kewda (screwpine), jamun (black plum), gulkand (rose petal preserve), tamarind, khajur (date), and khurmani (apricot). Their vegan sorbets cater to changing dietary preferences, while falsa (phalsa berry) remains a cult favourite among connoisseurs. The stuffed fruit kulfis—mango, pomegranate, apple, and orange—continue to be their signature offering, drawing curious food tourists from across the globe.

"What makes Kuremal's truly remarkable is how they've evolved without surrendering their soul," explains Farzana, who has conducted culinary heritage walks across Old Delhi for over a decade. "In my food tours, this is always our grand finale. I've seen international chefs and food critics fall silent with that first bite—it's culinary history in frozen form."

What distinguishes Kuremal's from the mass-produced ice creams flooding the market? The answer lies in their steadfast refusal to cut corners. Milk is still simmered for hours in large cauldrons, reduced to a quarter of its original volume. Seasonal fruits are hand-picked for both flavour and filling. The freezing process remains unhurried, allowing the kulfi to develop its characteristic dense, creamy texture that lingers on the palate. This dedication has earned them a prestigious clientele, including Bollywood luminaries and political dignitaries. They have served their kulfis at high government meetings and catered high-profile celebrity weddings—achievements that the family acknowledges with pride but not ostentation.

A Legacy Preserved: The Fourth Generation Expansion

The fourth generation, spearheaded by Vishal Sharma—a lawyer who abandoned his profession in 2018 to preserve his family's legacy—has modernised without compromising tradition. Recognising the difficulties customers faced in accessing their original location in Old Delhi's narrow lanes, especially after nightfall, Vishal established six additional outlets across Delhi, making their treasured kulfis more accessible. 

These outposts in areas like Bengali Market and Hauz Khas Village have introduced Kuremal's to younger audiences, while their presence on food delivery platforms ensures that even those unwilling to brave Delhi's legendary traffic can experience these historic flavours. Despite expansion, each kulfi remains handcrafted according to century-old methods. No artificial additives or preservatives sully the purity of their product—a rarity in today's food landscape dominated by industrial production and chemical enhancers.

As Delhi transforms around it—ancient havelis giving way to high-rises, and traditional bazaars competing with gleaming malls—Kuremal's represents a rare continuity. In a city where restaurants open and close with alarming frequency, their century-plus existence speaks volumes about their unwavering quality. The summer of 2025 finds Delhi, as always, wilting under punishing heat. But as temperatures soar, so do visits to Kuremal's outlets. Tourists clutching city guides mingle with multi-generational Delhi families, all seeking respite in those frosty, flavourful morsels.

"Last summer, my entire Instagram feed was filled with their stuffed mango kulfi," laughs Priya. "But unlike most viral food trends that disappoint in real life, this exceeded all expectations. My friends and I tried six different flavours in one sitting."

The reputation of Kuremal Mohanlal Kulfi has transcended mere dessert to become a cultural heritage. Their kulfis have graced the tables of Bollywood royalty like Amitabh Bachchan, political dignitaries including Rahul Gandhi, and business titans such as the Ambani family. Their prices, ranging from 80 to 250 rupees, remain accessible despite their premium status. In an era of fleeting food fads and Instagram-driven culinary trends, Kuremal Mohanlal Kulfi Wale stands as a testament to the enduring power of authenticity.

No marketing campaigns or celebrity endorsements fuel their success—just the whispered recommendations passed down from one generation to the next, like a delicious family secret too good not to share. As Delhi evolves around it, Kuremal's remains a sweet constant—a taste of heritage that continues to delight, one kulfi at a time.