How Isak Fragrances is keeping alive the ‘Purabiya’ essence of U.P. and a legacy of six generations

It could not have been anything but a business of perfumes for the sixth-generation member of the Vijayvergiya family or the perfumers’ family from Lucknow. Perhaps that is why Vidushi Vijayvergiya proudly calls herself the “sixth-generation perfumer.” As a kid, she spent a lot of time in her father's workshop, and as of 2025, she is running her perfumery label called Isak Fragrances. 

However, it is nothing but the same blood that runs in her veins that might have got her back to upholding the legacy, as initially, she could not have thought of plans for a venture in the fragrance industry, she tells me. “I had to be in the finance industry as I was pursuing CFA, as I moved to Switzerland after my wedding,” the one who is now back in Lucknow says. 

Quest leading to the legacy

As we speak over a virtual interaction, Vijayvergiya recalls what led to the inception. “I knew how the French perfume market had the domination over the world, and my natural intrigue was to understand what they were doing differently from what we were, since I also belonged to the same background,” she reminisces. 

Vijayvergiya, through her research, realised that India has been exporting a lot of natural oils. “We didn't have any space in the world perfumery market, while France had a very distinct idea. Hence, I did a lot of research, followed a lot of brands there and interacted with a lot of brands,” she says. 

With the research, Vijayvergiya identified that the French brands rely on various stories. Traditionally, Indian brands did not rely heavily upon marketing. “Even though we (India) are so rich in our biodiversity and with the kind of ingredients that are grown here, we never talked about it,” she says, adding that educating the audience could be a game changer. 

A slow transition to the journey of legacy

Although when Vijayvergiya came back to India, she tried her hand at other businesses like Chikankari clothing, which is synonymous with Lucknow’s heritage. However, she got back to the roots immediately after. “It was an old fire in me,” she says. 

Observing India’s way of extracting oils and ingredients, which is unique to India, however, Vijayvergiya still knew that she could not be, for instance, selling pure rose or Jasmine, “because the market has moved on”. “Since I knew my audience is using international brands and has been looking for ‘more complex, more nuanced fragrances’, I wanted to create more modern blends that are relevant to today's time, and we did a lot of integration. While we import a few ingredients, you still see the essence of India in Isak Fragrances,” she says. 

Mitti Ki Khushboo

Above all, Vijayvergiya considers the ‘First Rain’ to be the top selection, while the sales record also suggests the same. The reason, she states, is that it is 100% natural. “It is mild and very nostalgic. It has also proven to help release certain hormones that help us calm down,” she says.

For the same, the brand uses a 5000-year-old traditional process that includes copper digs, and the procurement of the Mitti from the Ganga ghats. “It has to be completely dry with no moisture in it. Earlier, we used to do it only during the winter season and before the rains. We need more time for it now that Mitti is then put into water, and it is heated. It follows the simple steam distillation,” Vijayvergiya adds.

The soul of Mitti is absorbed in the base, and the base enhances the particular fragrance, the fragrance of Mitti, Vijayvergiya tells me, detailing how the process is continued for an entire month, where the team of sixteen people is involved.

The tint of Lucknow 

Talking about people, if all Vijayvergiya has done is maintain the essence of Lucknow’s culture and its people, not just with the products but also with the name of the brand. “Coming from Lucknow, I have grown up amidst the culture of holding a lot of love for poetry and beauty. With Isak also, I wanted to represent Lucknow,” she says. 

In and around the local villages of Lucknow, the extended version of the Hindi language that is spoken is called ‘Purabiya’. In the language, people use the pronunciation for all ‘sh’ words as ‘s’, prompting Vijayvergiya. “You would have seen in the Vishal Bhardwaj movies where the words like ‘Namak isq ka’ have been used instead of ‘Ishq’ or ‘Isakzade’ for that matter,” Vijayvergiya explains as to why and how the brand got the name, ‘Isak’. “I wanted to keep it very raw, grounded and closer to the heartland, which is Lucnow.”

Generational knowledge comes in handy

Of all people, Vijayvergiya’s team, however, does not officially include the family members who have been perfumers, yet it acts as a base for her to take inspiration from. She says, “I keep going to my family sometimes to understand how to blend certain ingredients or enhance certain notes while keeping the fragrance natural.” “I go with questions like, ‘How do you keep it long-lasting, disturbing the primary note?’,” she adds. Vijayvergiya also reaches out to the family for things like bringing the base note to the top and the middle.

Currently, 70% of men and 30% of women constitute the audience for Isaq fragrances that are based in cities like Mumbai, Hyderabad, Pune, Bengaluru, and Delhi. However, the brand also exports to countries like the UAE, Australia, most of Europe, Mexico, Canada, and others. 

However, outside India, the US is the biggest market for Isak Fragrances, and Vijayvergia is already concerned about the tariffs imposed by the Trump government recently on India. It has already started showing the impact, and we are likely to be affected as well, drastically,” she says, adding that she is looking forward to changing strategies and expanding within India.