Woven Air and Whispered Scandals: The Extraordinary Tale of Dhaka Muslin

There once existed a fabric so fine that it could pass through a ring, so light that it was often compared to air, and so sheer that it scandalised 18th-century Europe. This was Dhaka Muslin, an extraordinary textile handwoven in Bengal, known for its unmatched delicacy, elegance, and craftsmanship. Crafted from an ultra-rare cotton that grew only along the banks of the Meghna River, Dhaka Muslin was a result of artistry passed down through generations of weavers. Each yard could take months to create, spun and woven by hand under strict conditions — often in the early hours of the day to avoid damaging the fragile threads with sweat or sunlight. The finished product was so soft and transparent that British officials once questioned whether Indian women were wearing anything at all!

Worn by Mughal royalty, European aristocrats, and Egyptian queens, this fabric became the toast of trade routes, the envy of colonial powers, and the pride of Bengal. However, its legacy was not without tragedy. As colonial powers tightened their grip over India, they disrupted traditional industries and forced the muslin trade into decline, until this legendary fabric was all but lost. Today, Dhaka Muslin remains a haunting reminder of what was once one of India’s greatest contributions to the global textile trade. This fabric was literally “woven air,” yet rich with history.

Textile Trade from India to the World

India has always been at the centre of the global textile trade. From the ancient Indus Valley Civilisation to the vibrant port cities of Gujarat, Coromandel, and Bengal, Indian cotton fabrics travelled the world through maritime routes to Rome and Greece, caravans to Persia and Central Asia, and later, through merchant ships to Europe.

Among these, the textile tradition of Bengal was unmatched. It produced silks, cottons, and especially muslin, a fabric that stood in a league of its own. By the 17th and 18th centuries, Bengal’s textile output dominated international trade. Its weavers weren’t just artisans, they were cultural treasures. Their work was so fine that India’s textiles accounted for a major chunk of the East India Company’s profits. But what is Dhaka Muslin, and why did it cause a scandal in Europe?

Dhaka Muslin was not ordinary cotton. It was handwoven from a rare and delicate variety of cotton called Phuti karpas, which grew only in a very specific climate along the riverbanks of Dhaka, in present-day Bangladesh. This cotton had extremely long and fine fibres, which made it possible to spin incredibly thin yarns, some with thread counts of 800 to 1200, far beyond anything modern machines can replicate today. The process of creating muslin was laborious and almost spiritual in precision. The cotton was cleaned using tools made from fish bones, spun into thread in highly humid conditions to prevent breakage, and woven on traditional pit looms, often in the early morning or moonlight. Sunlight was too strong; it would weaken or break the thread. There were more than a dozen varieties of Dhaka Muslin, with poetic names like Abrawan (running water), Shabnam (evening dew), and Nayan-sukh (delight of the eye). The finest muslins were almost invisible to the naked eye. A single garment could take months, even up to a year, to complete.

Who Would Wear These Weaves?

Dhaka Muslin was not for the common folk. It was the attire of royalty, nobility, and the ultra-wealthy. In the Mughal court, muslin was a symbol of refined taste and sophistication. Emperor Aurangzeb once reprimanded his daughter for appearing indecently dressed, only to find she was wearing seven layers of muslin! Outside India, Dhaka Muslin became the ultimate fashion statement in 18th and early 19th-century Europe. It dressed the queens and duchesses of France and England. Muslin gowns were all the rage, simple, draped, body-hugging, and extremely sheer. Jane Austen herself is said to have embroidered muslin by hand. Even Napoleon's Empress Joséphine adored it. In portraits, European noblewomen appeared to float in their feather-light gowns.

The Scandal in Europe

The arrival of muslin in Europe did more than just change fashion. It caused moral panic. The gowns made of muslin were so sheer that they clung to the skin, revealing the silhouette beneath. In France, during the post-Revolutionary period, this transparency was seen as both a celebration of freedom and a challenge to decency.
Fashion satirists called it “muslin disease,” mocking women for catching chills while wearing nearly see-through dresses. In England, conservative critics were outraged. It was sensual, shocking, and suggestive. But no one could deny it was beautiful. Despite the controversy, or maybe because of it, this particular muslin fabric continued to dominate European fashion for decades. It replaced the heavy, ornamented court dresses with something soft, flowing, and liberating. Women had never worn anything like it.

The Extinction of Woven Air

Unfortunately, the same colonial forces that once profited from Bengal’s textile trade also ensured its collapse. When the British East India Company established political control over Bengal in the mid-18th century, it systematically dismantled the native industries to make way for British mill-made cloth. Muslin weavers were overtaxed and exploited. Their work was undervalued. Some were forcibly conscripted into working under colonial supervisors. The rare Phuti karpas cotton plant fell into neglect. Local farming shifted to crops more profitable to the colonial economy, like indigo and jute. Famines, climate shifts, and the loss of generational knowledge further deepened the decline. By the late 1800s, both the plant and the practice had disappeared. Dhaka Muslin, one of humanity’s finest creations, was effectively extinct.

Indian Brands Selling Muslin Clothes

While the original Muslin can no longer be recreated, India and Bangladesh still preserve the spirit of the weave through fine muslin and jamdani fabrics. In Bangladesh, national efforts are being made to resurrect muslin. Scientists and traditional weavers are working together to regrow Phuti karpas and relearn lost techniques.

Where to Shop Muslin from?

In India, particularly West Bengal, handloom initiatives are producing high-thread-count muslin once again, though not quite at the level of the originals. Several modern Indian brands are keeping muslin alive in contemporary fashion:

Suta 

Suta’s emphasis on eco-friendly practices and traditional craftsmanship contributes to the preservation and promotion of Indian handlooms. This brand offers soft, dreamy muslin saris in pastel shades and floral prints.

The Loom 

The Loom creates delicate muslin tunics, kurta's and dresses with subtle embroidery. They blend these traditional fabrics with contemporary designs to create unique, handcrafted pieces that celebrate Indian weaving traditions.

Chidiyaa

Chidiyaa is popular for its designs of breezy muslin garments with playful block prints. The brand's emphasis on sustainable fashion and traditional weaves helps bridge the gap between artisanal craftsmanship and contemporary trends, supporting weavers and promoting handloom textiles.

FabIndia

FabIndia features lightweight muslin kurtas and accessories that are perfect for summer wear.  The brand's commitment to fair trade practices and direct partnerships with artisans has played a crucial role in sustaining and promoting Indian handlooms like Chanderi and Kalamkari.