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When you think of Gujarat or Rajasthan, what comes to mind? Perhaps the vibrant colours, intricate patterns, or bustling bazaars? But did you ever wonder why these regions look-alike with a particular style of tie-dye clothing? This ancient craft is none other than Bandhani, a traditional art form with roots so deep that its legacy stretches back thousands of years. Let’s unravel the threads of this fascinating fabric that has not only won hearts but also a Geographical Indication (GI) tag!
The Origins of Bandhani: A Legacy of Ties and Dyes
The word Bandhani comes from the Sanskrit bandhana, meaning "to tie". And true to its name, this craft involves tying tiny knots (bheendi in Gujarati) on fabric to create intricate patterns during the dyeing process. The origins of Bandhani date back over 5,000 years, with early traces found in the Indus Valley Civilization. Introduced to Kutch by a Fakir from Sindh, the art gained prominence thanks to the Khatri community, who have preserved this tradition for generations.
Bandhani has always been more than just a fabric; it’s deeply intertwined with Indian culture. Historical references such as the Harshacharita (606–648 AD) mention Bandhani, and even the Ajanta cave paintings (6th century AD) depict women wearing tie-dye bodices. Under the Mughal Empire, the craft flourished, becoming a favourite at Emperor Akbar's court. By the 18th century, Bandhani silk handkerchiefs were being exported to London, hinting at its global appeal even then. Each piece of Bandhani is imbued with meaning. Colours like red, symbolising marriage, and yellow, representing spring and childbirth, are deeply connected to life’s celebrations. Patterns like Leheriya (wave-like stripes) and Chunari (tiny dots) are created through hours of meticulous tying and dyeing, making each fabric a narrative of tradition and artistry.
The GI Tag and Global Fame
In April 2021, Kutch Bandhani earned its Geographical Indication (GI) tag, a recognition of its cultural and historical significance. This certification ensures that only authentic Bandhani, created by skilled artisans in Kutch, can bear the name. The GI tag safeguards this heritage from imitations and provides artisans with the recognition and livelihood they deserve.
But Bandhani’s story doesn’t end there. This traditional craft has successfully stepped into the modern era. Today, Bandhani is a staple in wardrobes across the world, seen in everything from sarees and dupattas to chic scarves and even contemporary home décor. International designers have showcased Bandhani on global runways, proving that this ancient art is as relevant as ever. Bandhani also represents sustainability. Traditionally, natural dyes like turmeric, madder, and pomegranate were used, though the 1956 Kutch earthquake saw a shift to chemical dyes for convenience. Many artisans are now revisiting eco-friendly practices, blending tradition with modern awareness.
Preserving a Legacy: Why Bandhani Matters Today
In a world obsessed with fast fashion, Kutch Bandhani stands as a beautiful reminder of the value of handmade crafts. Every knot and pattern reflects hours of labour and centuries of skill passed down through generations. By choosing Bandhani, you’re not just wearing a piece of art but supporting the livelihoods of artisans who keep this legacy alive. So, why not add a splash of Bandhani to your wardrobe?