The History of Bandhani: India’s Ancient Art of Tie-and-Dye

India’s textile traditions are a treasure trove of artistry, with every region weaving its own story into fabric. Among them, Bandhani stands out as one of the oldest, most vibrant, and most cherished techniques. Known globally as tie-and-dye, Bandhani is not just a craft but an expression of heritage, identity, and celebration that has endured for centuries.

The word Bandhani comes from the Sanskrit root 'bandh', meaning “to tie.” This simple act of tying and dyeing cloth has evolved into a highly intricate craft, believed to date back over 5,000 years. Historical evidence suggests that Bandhani was practised during the Indus Valley Civilisation. Excavations at Mohenjo-daro revealed figurines draped in dotted fabrics, resembling early forms of Bandhani.

References in ancient texts further underline its long-standing presence. The Harshacharita, a 7th-century biography by Banabhatta, mentions Bandhani-like tie-and-dye fabrics being gifted during royal ceremonies. Over time, the craft became deeply rooted in Gujarat and Rajasthan, regions that remain its epicentres today.

The Technique: A Labour of Love

Bandhani is created through a painstaking process. Artisans first mark patterns on the fabric, then pinch tiny portions of cloth and tightly tie them with thread. These knots resist the dye, leaving behind intricate dotted designs once the cloth is dyed and untied. The process requires precision, as even a small mistake can alter the pattern.

The dyes used historically were natural, including indigo, turmeric, madder, and pomegranate rind, which were common sources of colour. Over generations, the palette expanded, but the traditional red, yellow, green, and black combinations remain iconic.

Bandhani is more than fabric; it carries cultural meaning. Each colour and pattern has symbolic associations. Red Bandhani is often worn by brides, signifying love and prosperity. Yellow stands for fertility, while black and maroon are used during festive and religious occasions. In Gujarat, Bandhani is considered auspicious for weddings, with the gharchola (a red Bandhani sari with zari checks) being a traditional bridal drape. In Rajasthan, odhnis and turbans in Bandhani serve as markers of community identity, marital status, and even regional affiliation.

The patterns themselves, dots, waves, squares, and motifs like flowers or creepers, carry layered meanings. They are not just decorative but tell stories passed down through generations. A grid of single dots is called 'ekbundi'that signifies the universe; a cluster of four dots is called 'chaubundi', which signifies harmony. Whereas, 'satubundi' is the term used for seven dots and is known for blessing and finely embroidered and intricate motif designs of animals, such as an elephant or peacocks, are called as 'shikargah'. 

Bandhani flourished under royal patronage in western India. The Kutch region of Gujarat became especially renowned, with its Bandhani work sought after by merchants and travellers along trade routes. During the Mughal period, Bandhani reached new heights, with fine muslin and silk being used to showcase its intricacy. Trade played a crucial role in spreading Bandhani beyond India. Merchants carried these fabrics to Persia, Central Asia, and even Africa. Over time, Bandhani-inspired techniques emerged in other parts of the world, but Indian Bandhani remained distinct for its fine craftsmanship and cultural depth.

Bandhani in the Modern Era

In the 20th century, Bandhani faced challenges due to industrialisation and the rise of machine-printed textiles. Yet, the craft adapted and survived. Today, Bandhani is not just confined to traditional sarees and turbans but has found a place in modern fashion. Designers have embraced it, experimenting with contemporary silhouettes, fusion wear, and even global couture collections. States like Gujarat and Rajasthan actively promote Bandhani through government initiatives, artisan cooperatives, and craft fairs. The city of Jamnagar in Gujarat is particularly famous for itsred Bandhani, while Bhuj and Jaipur continue to be strongholds of the art. The craft has also gained recognition in sustainable and slow-fashion movements. Since Bandhani is handmade, it aligns with conscious consumer choices that value heritage and craftsmanship over mass production.

The Enduring Legacy

Bandhani’s survival through millennia is a testament to its resilience and appeal. From the courts of kings to the wardrobes of brides, from bustling bazaars to global runways, Bandhani has transcended time and geography.

It remains a symbol of continuity,  of traditions lovingly preserved, of artisans who pour generations of knowledge into every knot, and of a textile that continues to reinvent itself while staying true to its roots. As India embraces its craft heritage in contemporary ways, the history of Bandhani stands tall as a reminder of how fabric can carry not just colour and design but also stories, beliefs, and the heartbeat of a culture.

If you wish to buy your own Bandhani outfit, check out these homegrown brands. 

1. Gulaal

A contemporary Indian label that reinterprets the traditional Bandhani craft into modern co-ord sets, often using luxe satin paired with silk dupattas. Founded by Aakansha Agarwal, Gulaal blends heritage hand-craft with youthful silhouettes. Their pieces bring the vibrancy of Rajasthan’s tie-dye into today’s wardrobes.

2. House of Dorii

A Delhi-based, House of Dorii slow-fashion brand that uses classic Bandhani and tie-dye techniques on natural fabrics like chiffon, viscose georgette. They create modern silhouettes such as suit sets, lehengas, and shararas infused with traditional artistry. Their “Gulabo Bandhani” sets are especially popular for merging craft with contemporary style.

3. Kutchhism

A heritage-centred brand from Gujarat’s Kutch region, known for exquisite Raibandhej (a form of Bandhani) and Ajrakh block prints. They offer sarees, dupattas, and ready-to-wear pieces in fabrics such as georgette, mulberry silk, and muga silk. Kutchhism combines timeless Indian textile traditions with modern design sensibilities.

4. Brand Mandir

Based in Hyderabad, Brand Mandir boutique features handcrafted Bandhani sarees and fusion designs created by skilled artisans. Their Bandhani pieces are offered alongside other regional weaves like Kanjivaram and Kota. Known for intricate work, the sarees carry both traditional charm and modern elegance.

5. The House of Indya

A modern Indian fashion label that makes affordable, fusion-inspired Indian wear, including garments styled with Bandhej motifs. While often rendered as stylised prints rather than handcrafted dye, the designs retain the Bandhani aesthetic. The House of Indya focuses on accessible everyday wear with traditional touches.

6. Kankatala Bandhanis

A renowned brand specialising in Bandhani sarees, fabrics, and dress materials in cotton, silk, georgette, and tussar. Known for precision and vibrant tie-dye work, they cater to both textile lovers and designers. Their collections reflect authentic craftsmanship with a wide variety of colours and styles.