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Azra Goriawalla in the living room of Goriawalla's Bakery with her art work
Azra Goriawalla sits on a wooden chair inside her 53-year-old home bakery in Grant Road as we take a glimpse from the outside. Entering the home bakery gets us the nostalgic charm of this space that was started by Goriawalla back in 1972, aiming to support her family with the finances. Nestled in a quiet lane in South Bombay, this bakery has been serving only one cake—a decadent and moist chocolate cake for the last 53 years.
We live in a world of fleeting trends, and eateries serve new menu items every day; in that case, Goriawalla's Bakery might seem almost radical. There are no signs, a menu card pamphlet, or a crowd of people deciding which sweet treat to buy, but only a board above the apartment that spells Goriawalla’s in bold letters.
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For many, this cake is more than just a sweet treat; for them, it's a trip down memory lane, Goriawalla says. When we ask her, what is it about the cakes that people love so much? She says, “More than the cakes; it's the memories that take them back to their good old days. For those who have grown up eating my cakes for their birthdays or anniversaries, it is a slice of nostalgia," while her daughter Nimisha Attari sits close to her mother with the backdrop of the window overlooking the quaint Sleater road.
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The cakes, Goriawalla, fondly recalls, that have been a household name for all those living in Grant Road, and even a few celebrities like Karan Johar, Vidya Balan, Kajol, Ameesha Patel, Shammi Kapoor and many industrialists like Kokila Ambani and Mahindras.
An Unlikely Beginning
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As Goriawalla sits across a hand-painted portrait of her mother, she does not fail to mention how her mother motivated her to start the business. Newly married and having moved into a new house with a baby, Azra wanted some additional source of income. Because of her mother's persuasion and unwavering support, she decided to turn her passion for baking into a business. For Azra Goriawalla, the journey began when she had just learnt to make brownies; however, these could not go out as birthday cakes, thus, she started baking chocolate cakes with icing. The simple designs and the soft, spongy chocolate cake are what set Goriawalla’s apart from other bakeries.
Talking to Local Samosa, Goriawalla mentions that the day at the bakery begins as early as 5 a.m., with the staff prepping all the ingredients for the day. Around 40 to 50 cakes are baked fresh every morning and sold daily. “Starting a business like this was never on my list. It was not a planned project for me, and neither did I expect such a good response from people,” she says. This story unfolded on its own.
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Goriawalla mentions, “Many people ask me if this recipe was passed down from generations, but that was never the case. I found it in a cookbook. Making chocolate cakes is not rocket science; most of the sponges made have a similar process, but what matters is the proportions. Like I said, I was lucky; it just worked out for me."
While every other bakery sells an array of cakes, Goriawalla’s is one of its kind. So the question arises: Why has there been only one cake in the last 53 years? To which Goriawalla replies, “I made a business out of my hobby of making cakes for my children and just stuck with it. The recipe involves a simple, basic chocolate sponge with an icing that I have innovated. It is very light on your stomach since there’s nothing heavy." Goriawalla began baking cakes in a standard small pan of 7x7, which weighed up to 750 grams and gradually increased the quantity, and later began baking multiples of it.
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After the chocolate cake became a hit, most people would have thought of expanding their menu, but Goriawalla chose to stick to her trusted chocolate cake. “I never even once thought of expanding my menu further. I was busy with the house and had to look after my children and run a business simultaneously, and I have a lot of hobbies”, laughs Goriawalla.
The home bakery houses a few of her paintings, including that of her mother, and she has also exhibited a few in an exhibition for the first time. A travel enthusiast and someone who has a flair for art, Azra Goriawalla recently had her first art exhibition at the Nehru Science Centre in January. This art exhibition showcased her creations based on ‘Stippling Art’, also known as ‘Pointillism’, a painting technique wherein small, distinct dots are used to create varying shades and textures. The theme of her art exhibition was black and white.
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Goriawalla also mentions that her loyal customer asked her to franchise her bakery and expand their menu range as time passed, but she stuck to where she started from. “I was very happy and satisfied. My loyal customers kept coming back for more. At times, they too took a break from my cakes but always came back for more”, says Goriawalla with a grin on her face while also adding that Goriawalla's cakes have been a staple in every household, especially in South Mumbai.
Maintaining the legacy
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Even today, Azra Goriawalla uses the same K Chef ovens that she started baking within 1972. As she shows us the ovens while talking, she also states, “I want my cakes to be known as home-baked and homemade cakes. I have never compromised on the ingredients, quality and hygiene."
The bakery houses at least 5 bakers and staff for the operations, while Goriawalla and her daughter keep coming to the bakery as required. Introducing her staff, Goriawalla recalls how they were stuck in the home bakery during the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020. Most businesses suffered during the COVID-19 Pandemic, but Azra Goriwalla’s business boomed. “During the pandemic, my staff and I were living here. As we were the only ones delivering cakes, our business flourished. It was difficult in the beginning, but eventually, it became better."
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Now, Azra Goriawalla’s daughter, Nimisha Attari, looks after the bakery. She is the artist behind all of the customised decorations done on the cakes with multiple colours of frosting. However, Goriawalla cannot stop mentioning the support of her staff, which has kept the business thriving.
The regular day at the bakery has already begun as we talk to Goriawalla. Even 53 years later, while the inception of quick delivery apps has got the bakery on its feet, we witness a few locals who directly walk into the bakery and take the cakes. "We always aimed for such an environment where people can feel that they are entering a house," Goriawalla says, while the age-old house stands as a reminder of the bygone times.