The Gamcha Goes Glam: How India’s Humble Towel Became a High-Fashion Hero

Once a humble, utilitarian cloth used across the Indian subcontinent, the gamcha has undergone a remarkable transformation. Traditionally known for its checkered patterns and multifunctional use—from towel to turban—it has now emerged as a symbol of sustainable fashion and cultural pride. Designers and brands are reimagining the gamcha, integrating it into contemporary wardrobes and showcasing its versatility on global platforms.​

A History in Checks

A ubiquitous presence in the eastern and northern belts of the Indian subcontinent, the gamcha (or gamchha, gamusa, or gamosa, depending on region) has long served as a towel, headscarf, or wraparound cloth. Its lightweight weave and high absorbency made it indispensable in humid climates, while its vivid checks—usually red on white—became instantly recognisable. But beyond practicality, the gamcha held layers of regional and cultural symbolism.

In Assam, the gamcha takes the revered form of a gamosa—an icon of respect and cultural pride, gifted during Bihu and draped over statues of Vaishnavite saints. In Odisha, young boys traditionally wear it as a transitional garment before donning the dhoti. In West Bengal and Bihar, it becomes a sweaty forehead’s best friend—used as a labourer’s towel, a rickshaw puller’s scarf, or a farmer’s turban. It is a cloth of the people, humble in its origins but embedded in everyday life.

According to Kriti Srivastava, Professor at NIFT Kangra, “The gamcha is not just a piece of cloth. It represents dignity in labour, identity in diversity, and pride in simplicity. Why should we not elevate that?”

From Handloom to High Fashion

The gamcha’s shift into the fashion mainstream is not accidental—it reflects a broader movement that prizes sustainability, local craftsmanship, and a reclaiming of heritage. Indian designers and small brands have begun to reimagine the gamcha not only as clothing but as a statement of values.

One such label is 145 East, a Kolkata-based brand whose ethos centres around giving new life to Eastern Indian heritage. Their entire range—dhoti pants, wrap tops, jumpsuits, jackets—is built on the gamcha.

This reimagining involves more than aesthetics. It touches upon ethical production, supporting local weaving clusters, and sustainable practices. The gamcha, traditionally woven by hand using cotton on pit looms, fits perfectly into this paradigm. Its low environmental impact contrasts sharply with the synthetic fabrics of fast fashion.

At a time when fashion is moving towards authentic storytelling and rooted design, the gamcha offers a compelling narrative. Not only is it breathable, biodegradable, and beautiful—it also carries with it the stories of generational weavers, small-town dyers, and village artisans whose work now finds space in urban wardrobes.

Exhibiting Identity: The Gamcha in the Cultural Spotlight

The gamcha’s resurgence is no longer limited to designer ateliers or Instagram mood boards. Its role as a cultural artefact was recently cemented with an exhibition that honoured its quiet power. Held at the National Crafts Museum and Hastkala Academy in New Delhi, the exhibit titled “Gamchha: The Extraordinary in the Ordinary” ran from 1st to 10th March 2025 and showcased over 250 gamchas from 14 states.

Curated by Jaya Jaitly, founder of Dastkari Haat Samiti and a long-time advocate for Indian crafts, the show was a celebration of regional diversity. From the intricate motifs of the Assamese gamosa to the bold, geometric checks of Bengal’s handlooms, the exhibit underscored how one cloth could take on countless avatars.

“The gamchha is more useful than a necktie—it's a symbol of resilience, culture, and everyday life. Why shouldn't people pair a suit with a gamchha?,” Jaitly remarked, “It carries the identity of those who build our world with their sweat and toil, yet we’ve overlooked its significance for too long.”

The exhibition did more than just honour the past; it contextualised the gamcha in the present, pairing traditional examples with their contemporary fashion counterparts. Visitors saw gamchas turned into tote bags, dresses, wall art, and even minimalist upholstery.

The timing of this public recognition is significant. As India’s design consciousness grows more attuned to its own roots, the gamcha’s visibility reflects a larger trend of homegrown pride. In cities like Delhi and Mumbai, young people are wearing gamcha shirts as streetwear, tying gamcha scarves with linen kurtas, and choosing handwoven gamcha cloths as alternatives to imported prints.

Digital media, too, has played a vital role. Instagram pages dedicated to Indian fashion and slow design often feature gamcha styling tips. Photographers and stylists are using it as a visual metaphor for rural-urban fluidity. And as platforms like Pinterest and Etsy begin to spotlight artisanal Indian fashion, the gamcha is finding global relevance.

A Cloth That Connects: The Future of Gamcha in Indian Fashion

As fashion increasingly becomes a vehicle for cultural storytelling, the gamcha stands at the crossroads of aesthetic appeal, political assertion, and economic revival. In it, we see the aspirations of India’s craft communities, the creativity of its designers, and the shifting sensibilities of its consumers.

But perhaps what makes the gamcha so enduring is its resistance to definition. It is at once regional and national, masculine and androgynous, utilitarian and poetic. It can be worn by farmers in Purulia and fashion editors in Bandra. It can be knotted into a bag, wrapped into a turban, or tailored into a jacket.

As Shambhavi Singh, an independent textile researcher and stylist, aptly puts it, “The gamcha is not about nostalgia—it’s about continuity. It adapts, it absorbs, and it endures. That’s what makes it modern.”

In a world obsessed with the new, the gamcha offers an alternative: the timeless. And in a global industry often criticised for exploitation and erasure, it offers a powerful model for inclusive fashion rooted in dignity and design.

So the next time you see a chequered red scarf slung casually over someone’s shoulder—know that it is not just fabric. It is memory. It is a movement. It is fashion, redefined.

Where to Shop: 5 Brands Reinventing the Gamcha

As the gamcha weaves its way into contemporary fashion, several Indian brands are championing this transformation. Here's a selection of labels that are redefining the gamcha's identity:​

1. 145 East

145 East transforms the humble gamcha into contemporary streetwear, offering a range of garments and accessories that celebrate Eastern India's textile heritage. ​

Products: Unisex shirts, dresses, dhotis, jackets, accessories

Price Range: Rs. 650 – Rs. 15,500

2. Rangila Dhaga

Founded by Kalpana Das, Rangila Dhaga empowers women artisans by transforming traditional gamcha into vibrant fashion pieces, blending cultural authenticity with modern aesthetics.

Products: Dresses, blouses, sling bags, earrings

Price Range: Rs. 550 – Rs. 4,200​

3. Chidiyaa

Chidiyaa offers a range of gamcha cotton apparel that combines artisan craftsmanship with contemporary design, providing breathable and lightweight options perfect for summer.

Products: Wide-leg pants, crop tops, tunics

Price Range: Rs. 2,000 – Rs. 5,000 

4. Studio Bhavik Shah

Studio Bhavik Shah presents an exclusive range of stylish and comfortable designer garments made from exquisite handwoven gamcha cotton, suitable for everyday wear.

Products: Shirt dresses, kurtas, crop tops, pants

Price Range: Rs. 5,100 – Rs. 8,500

5. Tri

Tri is a Kolkata-based brand that features a variety of products handcrafted entirely out of Bangladeshi gamcha, offering a quirky upgrade to traditional textiles.

Products: Dresses, hair accessories, scarves, notebooks

Price Range: Rs. 500 – Rs. 3,000