'Less Stigma around Drinking Socially Among Women and Young': Bartender on Changing Bar Culture

It is in itself a statement to ponder upon when Bengaluru-based Karthik Kumar, a bartender and Beverage Director at Naked & Famous, states that he approaches bars as "living systems rather than performance stages", which reflects a counter to the cultural change that the Indian bars have witnessed alongside the growing glamourisation and showcase of drinking as an act. Needless to say, the bar itself is a culture with a history of evolving products and services.

Over the last two decades of his work, Kumar has observed it all, some of which he shares with Local Samosa. Edited excerpts from the interview.

Having witnessed the Indian bar culture evolve over two decades, what has changed the most, and what hasn’t changed?

What’s changed the most is awareness. Twenty years ago, bars were largely about alcohol delivery. Today, they’re about experience, storytelling, technique, and hospitality. Guests now care about ingredients, provenance, presentation, and even the glassware. Human behaviour had not changed. People still come to bars for the same reasons they always have: connection, escape, celebration, comfort. No matter how fancy the menu gets, at its core, a bar is still about making people feel seen and welcome.

Indian bar culture has been heavily influenced by global trends — from menus to serving culture — which might not have changed. Do you think it has? Or developed its own voice yet?

Initially, we borrowed heavily — menus, formats, service styles, even cocktail names. That phase
was necessary. We were learning. But now, yes. India is absolutely finding its own voice.
You see it in how we use local ingredients, regional flavours, house ferments, native spirits, and
cultural references. The new generation of bars isn’t trying to be New York or London anymore —
they’re trying to be Bangalore, Goa, Hyderabad or Kolkata. That shift is powerful.

Nowadays, regional brands and festivals are full of regional identity, as we also see in their cocktail programmes; what do you think of this shift?

I love it! This is where things get exciting. When cocktails start reflecting local pickles, spices, fruits,
street food memories, and festivals — they stop being just drinks and become cultural expressions.
It also encourages bartenders to research, travel, talk to farmers, and understand heritage. That depth
shows up in the glass. It’s not gimmicky anymore — it’s rooted.

Drinking has been normalised a lot, now more so in pop culture — from Instagram reels to OTT shows. Do you see this in how people order or behave at bars?

Absolutely! Guests today walk in with references from Instagram reels, OTT shows, and global bar content. They’re more confident ordering off-menu, asking for classics, or requesting custom drinks. There’s also less stigma around drinking socially — especially among women and younger crowds. Bars feel more inclusive now, less intimidating.

Talking of romanticising it, what do you think of Indian drinkers: more informed or simply more experimental?

Both, but mostly experimental. People are open to trying new flavours, techniques, and formats.
Education is growing, but curiosity is growing faster. Guests may not always know the theory behind
fat-washing or clarification — but they’re happy to taste it. And honestly, that’s beautiful. You don’t need to be informed to enjoy something. You just need to be open.

How does the business ecosystem look? Many see bars as glamorous businesses; how difficult is it actually to run one sustainably in India?

Extremely hard. Margins are tight. Regulations change constantly. Licenses are expensive. Staff retention is a challenge. Supply chains are unpredictable. Add rising rents and operating costs — and suddenly the “glamour” disappears. A sustainable bar requires discipline, systems, consistency, and relentless attention to detail. Creativity alone doesn’t keep doors open. Numbers do. Anyone entering this business thinking it’s easy money will be humbled very quickly.

How has it been for you? What is the most emotionally demanding part of being a bartender?

People. Not in a negative way — but hospitality is emotional labour. You’re absorbing energy all night. You’re listening to stories, break-ups, celebrations, frustrations. You’re managing teams, egos, exhaustion, and expectations often while smiling. Burnout is real. Learning to protect your own mental space is probably the hardest lesson.

You have also described bars as “living systems.” What does that mean?

A bar isn’t just a room with bottles. It’s a living ecosystem, staff energy, guest moods, music,
lighting, timing, and even weather affect it. One weak link can change the entire experience.
Like any living system, it needs constant care: training, feedback, evolution, and empathy. If you stop nurturing it, it slowly dies.

What do you think Indian bar culture will look like in the next decade?

More regional, more ingredient-driven, more design-led, more conscious! I see deeper collaborations with farmers and artisans, stronger identities tied to place, and less copy-paste concepts. Technology will improve operations, but soul will become the differentiator. The future Indian bar won’t try to impress — it will try to belong. And that, I think, is where true maturity lies.