This Bengali Restaurant in Kolkata Has Been Run by an All-Women Staff Since 1970!

“Back then, many of us were refugees or survivors of trafficking. We started by selling homemade sweets and snacks in hospitals and offices, it used to be called Annapurna Mistanna Bhandar,” says Papiya Choudhury, a senior management staff member who has been part of Suruchi for nearly 30 years. As we recently visited Suruchil, the powerful stories emerged that usually simmer behind its modest walls. 

Tucked away on Elliot Road, just a stroll from the Nonapukur Tram Depot, Suruchi traces its roots back to the early 1970s, but its soul was born much earlier — in 1932 — when the All Bengal Women’s Union (ABWU) was founded by women like Romola Sinha, Charulata Mukherjee, Suniti Devi, and Sucharu Devi. These pioneers created a refuge for women fleeing abuse, trafficking, and the traumas of Partition.

Currently, it is the only restaurant in Kolkata that is entirely staffed by women. Yes, you read that right. From the head chef to the servers, from the kitchen helpers to the managers — every single person here is a woman. Imagine you could be sitting in the very same seat Prince Charles once dined here during his visit to Kolkata!  

Each plate of food is served with the purpose of women’s empowerment

Continuing the story of how it was born, Choudhury says, “With time, it became harder to go door to door. That’s when our elders thought of opening a restaurant, and, just like that, Suruchi was born — not as a business, but as a self-sustaining haven for vulnerable women." The idea was simple but profound: give women the tools to be independent through something they already knew well — cooking.

One of the most emotional stories came from Anjana Chatterjee, who’s worked here since 2011. “I’ve seen women rise from rock bottom — domestic violence survivors, trafficking victims, even widows with children — and now they run this place. I feel proud when I say people like Budhadeb Bhattacharya, Abdul Mannan, Gopal Krishna Gandhi, and even Prince Charles have eaten the food served by these same women.” Though the restaurant isn't run for the money, when it comes to food, "Specialities include 365-days-a-year hilsa fish", smiled Anjana Chatterjee. “You won’t get that even in the fanciest hotels in Kolkata,” she added.

"Chitol maachher muitha, bhetki paturi, and their legendary dal kachori and Mughlai paratha with mutton keema. “All recipes are 100% authentic Bangladeshi-style,” shares head chef Bhujan Majhi, who joined in the 1980s as kitchen staff and now leads the kitchen. “We also have vegetarian thalis that start from just Rs. 200, and non-veg thalis that can go up to Rs. 600. But no matter the price, it tastes like maa-er haater ranna (a mother’s cooking).”

The decor is modest but charming, with pattachitras, traditional wooden artwork, and a very homely vibe. “It's like your mum is serving you food,” a regular customer we met smiled, tucking into a plate of mochar ghonto. Bhujan, who once walked in carrying her 5-year-old daughter after being rescued by police, today, her daughter is a senior nurse at a hospital in Bardhaman.

How Suruchi Has Evolved — But Its Soul Remains the Same

Over the decades, Suruchi has seen changes — both in its menu and mission. From a full staff of 50–60 women in the early days (when everything from spice-grinding to cooking was done manually), it now runs with a smaller but equally passionate team of around 12–13 women.

“When lockdown hit, we realised people couldn’t afford expensive fish,” Papiya di shared. “So, we innovated. We made affordable dishes like chingri paturi using small prawns or chitol instead of hilsa — still keeping the authentic flavours intact.” And of course, who can forget the day when Prince Charles visited?

 “I was very young at that age and roads were blocked, all the girls were peeking from the roof,” Papiya di blushed. “We got special glass cutlery and even one of our senior staff helped him eat fish properly. saal ta amar mone nei kintu muhurto gulo mone ache (I don't exactly remember the year or date, but I do cherish the moments)”

More importantly, the restaurant continues to empower. “We still take in teenagers who’ve faced abuse or abandonment. ABWU has a special department for it called Shakti Sadan, where we help women become self-sufficient based on their skills. ” Papiya Di added, “Some work in the kitchen, some learn administration, and others go on to study further. Many of them are now nurses, teachers, or even working in hotels.”

She added, “You have to understand — this is not just a restaurant. This is a women’s rehabilitation centre disguised as a dining room.” The sisterhood is real. Staff members help each other celebrate birthdays, support each other's children, and even arrange marriages if someone wishes. “One of our girls, Mangala, is now happily married and living in Burdwan. Another Shondha, settled in Ahoritola,” Papiya di beamed. 

Where: Elliot Road, Mullick Bazar, Taltala, Kolkata, West Bengal 700014

When: Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.