Ashdeen Lilaowala Redefines Parsi Heritage with Contemporary Gara Embroidery

Ashdeen Lilaowala's relationship with Parsi Gara embroidery began long before it became his life's work. Growing up surrounded by the craft—watching his mother and aunts adorned in intricately embroidered garments at weddings—the art form was simply part of his cultural landscape. However, it wasn't until his formal education at the National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad that casual familiarity transformed into scholarly pursuit.

"When I was a student there, we had to dig into traditional textiles of India, and do a small report, and I think that was the first time I kind of really started doing some kind of research into the craft," Lilaowala recalls. What followed was an extensive research project for the Ministry of Textiles and UNESCO, taking him to China and Iran to trace the roots and routes of this centuries-old tradition. By 2012, armed with years of research and a clear vision, he launched his eponymous label with a singular mission: "to create something which was kind of a contemporary version of traditional Parsi Gara, and kind of take inspiration from the motifs."

Recognised as an award-winning textile designer, author and curator, Lilaowala has achieved remarkable success over the past decade.

Balancing Tradition with Innovation In Gara Embroidery

In an era dominated by fast fashion and fleeting trends, Lilaowala has deliberately positioned his label as a counterpoint. "The craft is not like seasonal in its contemporariness, it's a classic, and it's something which can be worn across generations, kind of an heirloom piece," he explains.

This philosophy extends to his design process, which he describes as a careful balance of experimentation and respect for tradition. "You have to take three steps which are very safe, and then take one leap somewhere. Maybe sometimes you land, maybe sometimes you don't land." He experiments with unconventional fabric combinations, such as embroidery on Banarasi silk and Kanjivaram, demonstrating this measured approach to innovation, with some ventures proving more successful than others.

The Creative Process and The Community Behind It

Lilaowala and his team begin with mood boards, drawing inspiration from films, photographs, and historical references. What makes the process particularly challenging is that the final result remains uncertain until the embroidery is complete. "It starts with a very small spot, so it's very exciting. And sometimes we are like, Oh, it's not come out as nice as we hoped," he admits.

As one of the few Parsis in his workshop, Lilaowala bears the responsibility of educating his craftspeople about the cultural significance of the work. "I have to give them information. We have sensitised the craft people and everybody to know what is Parsi and how the birds are," he notes. The Parsi community itself has been instrumental in this endeavour, generously sharing their ancestral textiles and creating what Lilaowala describes as "a huge directory for us to create new things."

Weddings, Collections and the Story Beyond It

The label has found its natural home in India's wedding market, where Lilaowala's aesthetic aligns perfectly with the demand for festive and occasional wear. "We do a wedding slash festive collection," he confirms, with new lehengas and bridal wear regularly added to the range. Interestingly, his clientele extends well beyond the Parsi community. "What is lovely is that there are a lot of Parsi girls marrying non-Parsi boys, a speciality for the Delhi Parsi Community, and vice versa," he observes, noting how intercultural marriages have created new opportunities. "Most of the couples respect each other's culture. I know a lot of girls who are marrying a Parsi boy who will come and say, ‘Oh, we want Parsi wedding sarees.’"

With three stores across Mumbai, Delhi, and Hyderabad, and a growing range that now includes shawls and bags, Lilaowala's immediate focus is consolidation. When asked about the future, his response is refreshingly pragmatic: "Ahead is tomorrow. I always say, like, let's just take one step at a time." It's this grounded approach, combining deep cultural knowledge with measured innovation, that has established Ashdeen Lilaowala as both a custodian of Parsi heritage and a relevant voice in contemporary Indian fashion.